24th November 2012 - Glow plugs now working...after a fashion!

GLOW PLUGS
Ordered yesterday at 1400 and this morning a set of glowplugs get delivered by the postie. I can recommend www.Barry4x4.co.uk !

Now despite it piss'isting with rain all day I thought I would make a start on this job. Yesterday evening and this morning I had put copiuous amounts of GT85 around the plug so I hoped that would break any bond formed after 18 years of being in there?

The first problem was the plug on No.1 cylinder. It was very stiff to turn and then I realised it wasn't turning in the bore but twisting the whole plug body! Ballcocks! If I proceed with stressing it any further I can see this causing me to have the head off. Not something I want to be doing at the moment.

So with the plug about a third up it's thread I have had to leave it there. As luck would have it this is the ONLY plug that is actually still working anyway. As and when I overhaul the top end then I will be far happier putting a bit more force on this or drilling and running a tap down...but not when the head is on!

The other three plugs came out pretty easily and are all marked Beru Germany so I am still confident they are the original ones. Stuck on the bench and with a DVM across them all three are knackered. Resistance measurements of

Plug 4 - 4.5k Ohm (this must have decided to fail since yesterday's check?)
Plug 3 - 140k Ohm
Plug 2 - 1k Ohm
Plug 1 - 0.9 Ohm

The new Allmakes plug was also 0.9 - 1.0 Ohm cold.

Pic below of the three plugs after removal plus the new unit on the right.

Once the new plugs were in (a light smear of coppaslip on the threads) I fired her up..or at least I attempted to, but the relay supply fuse failed after 5 seconds. So, so much for the idea that the fuse will take short bursts of high current? I am an electrical engineer for Pete's sake but that doesn't help when there is no data available for the I2t curve for the automotive fuse LOL. It's obviously faster than a fast thing on a fast day?

Fuse now bypassed (40A and the biggest available in the std automotive blade size) and I tried again with a 15 sec. burst of glow and it fired up like a Swiss (cheap Chinese copy more like) watch.
 

23 Nov 2012 - Fuel system problem fixed!

PEVEKOIL INSTALL
After knocking some ideas around on the S2 forum I took the easy option this morning and removed all the copper sealing washers off the Bosch fuel filter banjos (RH/dieso tank filter). Heated each one to red heat then plonked them into a cold cup of water to anneal them.

Refitted these, ran the system up and once the residual air had cleared through it ran fine. I left the engine running for 15 minutes and kept an eye on it and it still ran OK. No air was visible at the IP inlet. Then selected the LH tank then switched back and all was still good...so I took Trig's for a 5 mile run around the block. No problems at all!!

Who would think that some peanut money washers could cause these sort of problems?

GLOW PLUGS
When I did the first tests using the glow plugs (large jump lead to glow on barrel 4). It made a big difference to starting. Faster tickover and much smoother. I tried it today now the wiring mods are all functional and it didn't seem as good.

Stuck a DC clamp on the supply cable to all the plugs and the initial readable current was only 20 Ampere. No way is that enough to heat four plugs! Disconnecting each from the loom I had the following reading with a quality DVM.

1-1.5 Ohm
2-900 Ohm
3-Open circuit
4-1.3 Ohm

Barrel 2 and 3 are obviously FUBAR'd so I will check into prices. The 'net' consensus suggests the obvious that Sh1tp4rt should be avoided and all others are fine.

I have ordered a set of Allmakes ones for £12.50 delivered. Beru were £50.


BACK TO THE BASICS
After 3 days of engine running issues it took a while for the engine to run smooth again and the tail pipe initially had a lot of black oil residue from part burnt WVO and dieso but after the short run it looked and sounded a lot better.

Vibration is still an issue and I also wonder whether I should regap the rockers agin. I did do it when the engine went in but one does sound a bit rattly compared to the rest - but that might be an injector? It needs a few more miles to really settle down and these will only be done on the RH tank for now. Also even with the glow plug on for 5 seconds before firing it is still a bit smokey on start-up. As mentioned before the engine came out of a D1 that had been 'billied' a bit. Whether someone had tweaked the fueling I do not know. At some point I will consult this and see ---> http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/topic,42295.0.html

As the Smith's heater started weeping again and was disconnected from the cooling system I will pull that out today. All it does is vibe on the bulkhead and as it is currently U/S there is no point in it being there. I just wrap up warm and flick the heated screen on ;)

22 November 2012 - Pevekoils fitted and a bunch of other fettlin''

Another two week vacation to absorb more outstanding holiday before the end of the year and in between baby minding I had a list of jobs I wanted to do on Trigger.

PASSENGER DOOR
This has never closed easily and luckily it didn't need much adjustment. It now closes as 'easily' as the RH one.
 

ELECTRIC'ERY

Fitted a pair of cigar lighter sockets to the dash for occassional pluggy type stuff. then rewired the CB and fitted that to the rear bulkhead. A much better location and quality of bodging than before.
Dash backlights were fitted with 'high power LED's' some time ago and turned out to be pretty much useless. As much light emitted as an ignited farting mosquito. So I picked up the std bulb from the local hal'frauds. 49p for two with a trade discount and I can actually see the dash now when it is dark.

GLOW PLUGS
The Tdi came with glow plugs, though I had never wired them up as every comment on the net says 'why bother?' Yes it will start from cold without, but why strain everything when there is this simple alternative?

 The cable loom was salvaged and I dragged it out of a box and fitted it....but the relay didn't work. Checked the relay manu date on the side and it was stamped '94 so probably died due to old age? A replacement was going to be around £30 so I went for a cheaper option.

A std automotive 40 Amp relay will take 120 Amp for 3 seconds without detriment (at least the Tyco ones do). Current load on a full compliment of tdi heaters is around 90 Amps for a fraction of a second and then drops off to around 60 Amps. They will only be enabled for 3-5 Seconds anyway. Also I will use a manual toggle switch so I only have to use them when necessary...and the cold start light on the dash can easily be made to work when the plugs are working.

Total cost for the relay £1.20. So I splashed out on a natty little socket for it with an integrated fuse holder. All in, with postage it came to £5.20!

Works fine!

PEVEKOILS Etc.
I had been avoiding getting these installed for months but I thought while I had the dash apart for the glow mods I would start the wiring for these....and I ended up doing the whole install.

Changed the pipework a bit. I no longer heat the dieso and have re-routed so only the LH WVO/dieso tank feed passes through the heat exchanger. Both tanks have independent filters. A CAV type on the LH and the original tdi spin on Bosch type for the RH.

Here is a 'quality' image of the current layout.

Now three days in I still haven't managed to get the system working without problems.

1. The first problem was the inability to draw from the LH tank. Tank had not been used for months and had been left empty so the filter was changed as it may have gummed up due to the WVO.
2. Air leaks at various points. Lots of fault finding and hose changes to quality SAE J30 R6 fuel hose.
3. RH tank (dieso) the filter didn't seem to want to allow fuel to pass through. The system would run and starve itself of fuel. Changed the filter for a new one and it would not run at all. Then noticed that I had fitted a TD5 filter (much finer filtering and therefore needs a stronger pump) and not the tdi type. Bypassed that and all was well.
4. Everything was running fine until I fitted a fresh tdi filter and reconnected the bypass. I had the same problem with fuel starvation! Bypass the filter housing again and all was good with the world mmmmmm.

So that is where we are now. The fault is either a porous housing (which always used to work), leaks around the copper sealing washers on the banjos (I just fitted these and didn't anneal) or the lift pump isn't sucking enough. The final idea I believe to be a red herring as it draws fine from the LH 'veg' tank which is more viscous.

Here's a pic of the current Pevekoil fittment and the glow relay to the rear on bulkhead to the right of the fuse box. tdi filter cart currently removed and housing bypassed.

 

 

Back to this tomorrow (weather permitted) and the first step will be to soften those copper banjo washers ;)

1st October 2012 - Hub seals

During yet another run to dump more garden rubbish down the tip I spotted a oil trace on the inside of the OS rear tyre. Also a small one on NS rear.A quick finger test showed this to be EP90...or at least a blend of that and axle grease.

I stripped the hub down (then remembered I had not stripped a hub seal for nearly 10 years!) and the hub seal was showing signs of weeping around the distance piece/seal land. The land had some surface corrosion.

Casting my mind back to 2008-9 when this axle was 'overhauled' I only checked over the seal arrangement and it all seemed good..at the time. So to save peanuts I left it 'as is'. Maybe that was a mistake and a few years aging had finished it off, who knows? So the assembly was stripped down and everything cleaned up in kero ready for a parts delivery from Paddocks.

The distance piece was removed in my std fashion of drilling the surface with a pilot drill and opening the hole up to 8mm - followed by a good hard wack with a cold chisel. Works every time ;)

The mistake I did make was ordering the wrong hub seals. I accidentally clicked on the RTC3511G (S3 >80/81 and Defender) and not the 3510 - muppet! Luckily I had a spare 3510 hanging at the back of the shelf and dropped that in. But the hub seals will always be useful for the 90.

One issue was the internal dia of the new distance piece. This had been stored in the freezer for 4 days prior to fitting (a tad excessive). That should have opened the dia up sufficiently, but it was still too tight. On checking with the vernier the dia's were fine but the axle tube had a small ripple at the end causing a bit of fouling - but good tap using the hub spanner and a 3lb mallet did the trick.

The NS was also stripped and cleaned and the new distance piece fitted. Plus I corrected the odd brake cam adjusters (one cam stripped when I fitted them a while back meaning I only had 3 of one type...so I used the SWB front one). Despite this the hub initially looked to have a better seal than the NS one. Stripping it down showed this to not be the case. It was far worse than the other side. The brake shoes were fine but there was a lot of gunge in there.

I also checked out the weepy OS front hub. The leak turned out to be a couple of loose bolts holding the swivel assembly onto the axle casing. I tightened these up and hopefully all will now be fine?

19th August 2012 - Engine mounts changed/rattly bonnet!

ENGINE MOUNT SWAP

Last weekend I managed to remove the old engine rubber mounts fit the new larger genuine Defender 200tdi rubbers (ANR1808).

This was not an easy job and a few chops were needed to the the LH rubber to get it to fit - but after two days of cursing the mounts were in.

I discovered that I had fitted an old Dunlop Metalastic unit on the RH side of the block. This was a secondhand unit I had rolling about in a box that I put in as a stopgap - and then forgot about. On the RH side I had a pattern Series diesel rubber. This was only a few years old so still in good order.

The gearbox had already been fitted with the later 200tdi type. So I left that for now.

The pic below shows all three. From the left - Old Dunlop, Series diesel, new ANR1808.

So did this improve anything? Yes...and no.

The trans brake no longer jumps a few notches over bumps but the vibes to the body have increased due to increased rigidity of the new mountings. But now the bonnet rattles at low revs just up from tick-over.

In all honestly I think the original mounts would do the job fine if in good condition. The Dunlop definitely wasn't. Personally I would go with the Series Diesel mounts if I had to decide on rubbers again...cheaper to!

Now the new vibes are causing the bonnet to rattle at low revs, which is most annoying. I have initially narrowed this down to loose bonnet catches. These catches both date from the 60's and after all these years of exposure seem to be full of rust + springs that have lost their power. To replace these with new would cost £90 for genuine and £60 for pattern!

An alternative solution will be to 'nick' the two spring clips that hold down the FFR battery cover in the cab. These have always been under cover and are in superb condition. So next weekend I will get these switched around and see if the bonnet 'wobble' is calmed down a tad.



This weekend SW England went through a bit of heatwave and I needed to use Trig's for a few rubble runs to the tip and assorted other errands. So for the first time ever I took the door tops off to get a bit of additional ventilation after rolling the tilt up. Yep, I have never done that before - surprising I know!

I plan to do this again so I then decided to review the door liner setup. I bought a complete set including elbow rests new from Exmoor trim a year or so ago during the rebuild and now I have decided to ditch most of it. The upper panel and elbow rest is now off and in the garage and I plan to flog these on the S2 forum soon. They won't be used again. Removing these makes it easier to get at the door top nuts next time.

....and I fitted the door handles Stu!

25th July 2012 - Washer bottle/lift pump and another MOT!

LIFT PUMP

After last months poor performace issue the Allmakes lift pump was fitted (took 20 minutes) and all is good in the world :) Runs well now and with the UK being in a 'heatwave' the 200tdi is running fine on processed WVO and 10% ULSP.

SCREEN WASHER

The washer pump packed up and as getting a replacement Lucas one looked to be a bit spendy I sourced a complete bottle and pump assembly for the pricely sum of £7 delivered - off the Bay. Works fine and the old bottle one was leaking anyway so this is a win win - if you're not worried about originality?

Both of the repairs above made the 109 ready for his annual........

MOT
Trig's went in for the annual test and came back with only a few minors. Steering relay and the steering relay drop arm had some play and the brakes need adjusting up. Otherwise walked it. It shows that these guys pick up stuff that we just get used to as tightening all the 'loose' bits up has improved the steering wander no end!

BRAKES
After the pointers above I adjusted up the trans and front brakes but the back end seems to be an issue. I then remembered having issues with the cam adjusters on the rear axle so that looks like another job to get ironed out?

ENGINE/GEARBOX MOUNTS
Since Trig's has being doing a few veggy miles recently while being pursued by the aroma of fried Sprats I have begun to notice how often the trans brake clicks up a few notches after going over bumps.

Back when I fitted the gearbox and engine mounts I just used whatever I had about. Probably all Series petrol mounts of varying ages and manufacturers. So probably not the best choice? The popular choice seems to be Defender 200tdi ANR1808 on both points - also genuine ones are preferred.

So order now placed for one pair of genuine for the engine and a pattern set for the gearbox. At £10 plus tax and del for the genuine I will only stretch to one set - miser! Note one of the engine mounts will have to be hacksawed slightly to fit the Series petrol mounts. It has to be hacksawed, a 4" slitting disk will make a right mess when it hits the rubber!

After dropping the suspension a few months ago I got around to modding the log trailer so that now also levels up better on both Trig's and the Defenders tow hitches. To do this I made up a 2" box riser section for the 50mm ball hitch. It now sits dead level on the 90 and is pretty much fine on the 109 - even better when the 109 gets a load of logs in the bed!

So jobs to do at the moment......

1. Check the rear axle brake snail cams
2. New engine and gbx mounting rubbers
3. Alternator upgrade
4. Pevekoil install

PS - twin battery mod working well and fires now on a sniff of the starter button.

20th June - Reproof/air'y fuel/screen washer/battery

BATTERY PROBLEMS - AGAIN!
Trig's has been idle for the past few months, other than odd hauling trips to the refuse site after clearing garden debris and other accumulated toot. Due to lack of use I put him on the smart charger to keep the recently fitted battery at 100% and ready to RnR. This was all good until this weekend.

On Saturday I did the usual haul and popped into Rob's while I was in the vicinity. Distance to the tip is 5 miles and Rob is just around the corner so probably 3-4 starts in that time. Next day I started up to shuffle the 109 around the yard. When I attempted to move it back the batt had run out of puff. Batt volts had dropped to just under 12.0vdc so 30 mins on the std charger fixed that.

Now the battery I have installed has enough CCA to kick over a 2.5 diesel in a Nissan Terrano (that's where it came from) so should be up to the job? But the alternator fitted is the std Lucas used on the 2.25 petrol. Obviously that has much lower compression than the Tdi - so less amps required to turn in over. So is the alternator just not up to pushing in enough charge? I will need to check whether Twizzle used that Disco alternator I gave him when we were stripping that down?

In the meantime the battery tray had room for another 069.  I had the old matching 069 in the garage so that went in in parrallel with the existing one. Knocked up some brackets and now I need to find some heavy gauge cable to connect it up. At least this way I have maximum storage potential? Around 1200CCA possible (though the cables won't support that for long)?

REPROOF THE TILT
Last year I bought in a 5 litre can of Fabsil to reproof the tilt and have been waiting for a few dry days so I can get the job done. Britsh Summer at it's best?

This weekend had a few bright hours so I thought I would wing it.

Friday evening I sprayed the tilt with diluted Jeyes fluid to kill off any mould. That sat for 6-8 hours..and conveniently it rained. So that neutralised that - Result! Roll on Sunday and the sun came out and dried everything nicely, so out came the brush and 4 litres later it was proofed. Rain came down that evening and proved all was good.

AIR IN FUEL - AGAIN
Moving the 109 around this week revealed that the old chestnut of air in the diesel.

Pulling hoses and bypassing stuff located the problem. The fuel pipe from main tank to the heat exchanger had 6 joints and an in-line 'bio filter'. Filter was blocked with muck and one of the joints was allowing air in with the increased suction.

As I had already done with the  LH tank the in-filter was dumped (on the LH filter I changed for a huge CAV unit) and replaced most of it with one section of rubber reinforced fuel hose. Tests show it all to be good.

While testing I noticed that the lift pump on the side of the Tdi block no longer pumps by hand. Sounds like that is also a bit faulty, so I have ordered one of those. £17 delivered for an Allmakes one.

At the moment I am running only running from the RH tank with a blend of 50/50 SVO/dieso and I still need to get the Petzoil valves rigged up.

WASHER BOTTLE
The bottle and pump were salvaged off the 109 before the rebuild and the pump finally gave up the ghost. Googling/Ebay'ing around I found I could get a new reservoir (bigger that the current and without a crack in it) for only £15 delivered including jets and hose. Not that I need those bits. Placed the order and now waiting for that to turn up.


.........................And I still haven't had the tracking set-up

17th March 2012 - XZL's on and suspension dropped

SUSPENSION DROP
For some time I planned to drop the leaf spring front mounts to their lower point. The military spec chassis comes with an option of two positions...and I went for the higher one when Trigger was built up....as most do. I now find that with the Rocky Mount parabolics underneath that the tow hitch is too high. I don't really need all that height anyway.

So today out came the high-lift (haven't touched one of those in 10 years so I played safe and read the instructions again, first!) and assorted spannery things.

The front drop was straight-forward and lulled me into thinking the rear would be too. It wasn't and I had to use two hydraulic jacks to tweak each spring into alignment with the new 'fresh' hole.

So the height change was as follows for A & B from the center of the arch to ground.

Initially A=98cm B=93cm. The springs were then dropped to their second chassis position which then gave A=97cm and B=91cm. So b-all drop at the rear due to the length of the back spring and the geometry.

To get the rear lower I decided on removing the '1 tonne' shackles and fitting a spare 'SWB' set I had to hand. Pic shows the length comparison.

Now I had A=95cm and B=91cm. Much better IMHO ;) I now need to dig the trailer out and see how that sits. It will have a pitch but it will be around 4cm lower than it was.

TYRES
After a very quick turn-around by the dedicated S2 tyre guy (cheers Mark D) 5x tyres and rims went off with the 4x new XZL's and came back a week later all fitted plus 4x now spare Lassa's to put on 'the bay'.

The XZL's are much narrower on the tread block than most 750's but this due to their design intention - to cut through the soft stuff and find something firm. A quick run around the block shows the ride to be better than before with less sway. But some of that is also probably due to the new reduction in C of G ;)

Here he is as he was a few months back...

Here's Trig with new boots and in 'Chicano' mode!

Honestly it is lower.

Just measured from the floor to the top of the tow ball and on Trig's it is 26". On the Defender it is 22".

25 Feb 2012 - New battery fitted.

The new Bosch 069 batt arrived and was duly charged overnight and dropped into Trigger. First push of the button after a overa weeks layover and he fired first time - RESULT.

One job down and several more still outstanding ;)

18th February 2012 - Batt dying & new tyres hauled home

BATTERY
Well the story of the 'dodgy' Bosch battery didn't get better and it seems that either due to age or more probably my treatment of the battery it has now decided it is no longer up to the job of kicking Trigger over. The final test was 2 days charging and even then I had to use the Defender batt and some jump leads to kick the engine over. It just doesn't have the strength anymore.

To that end the current Bosch is going to have to be relegated to a backup for the CB and ancilliaries via a split charge. The main battery was going to be replaced with a Halfords 096 I had been given but that is 10mm too wide. In the end I have ordered another Bisch S4 069 size which fits in the FFR dual battery position without issue. Online price only £62 delivered.


TYRES
The crossply Lassa's currently fitted to Trigger originally came off the Tdi engine donating Discovery and were always looked on to be a temporary fit. They are well past their best anyway and while legal they don't have much bite when the going gets rough and also have poor road grip and handling when compared to a newer radial./

So looking at the options :-

a) I have 4x Goodyear Wrangler AT's on the old SWB rims. 2x good and 2x not so good. I could strip these off and fit.
b) Buy new. Tyre prices for LR sized rubber seems to have rocketed recently due to the credit crunch or profitering (you judge). Even Fedima Extreme Evo are £120 a corner and they are remoulds. The std Extreme is £100. All in 750x16, a size I will stick with.

In the end I went with a variation of b).

I also sent a mail to LW Vass to see what they had to hand. After a week I had nothing back so I moved on.

Checking Ebay regularly I spotted a couple of sets of 4 new Michelin XZL's. One set in Scotland and another 'closer' to home near Hereford. The Hereford one was then suddenly removed from auction 12 hours before it was due to finish by a 'buy it now' at £300. Baring in mind XZL's retail at £140-180 unfitted - each!

Not having anything to lose I set the seller a mail saying I was watching the auction and if he had held out I would have bidded more than that and driven up to collect in the next few days. 10 hours later I receved a mail back to say the original BiN buyer thought the tyres were in Hertfordshire and they were still for sale. Mailed the seller back, then followed up with a call and agreed £320.

Here they are....

My 16 year old tom cat even manages to hobble into the pic

So new quality radial tyres that have been in storage for a few years. Not remoulds. Tough sidewalls. Can run tubless or tubed. Result! Now I need to get them fitted.....and maybe find another as a spare.

Should keep Trigger going for a while and no doubt someone on the Bay will buy the old set of Lassas? Also I have an interested party of the Wranglers too.

OTHER
Both military fuel valve assemblies sold and raised £40 towards the electric Pevekoil valves. One is on it's way to Portugal.

Nothing done with the fuel setup yet. I will get the battery and tyres out of the way first.

I now have a pair of interior door handles though. Cheers Twizzle!

4th February 2012 - 200tdi will not fire

TOO BL**DY COLD TO START!?

After a full week of -3 to -9 Deg.C and Trigger just sitting and going no-where I decided I needed Trig's to haul a kingsize mattress down to the tip.

Last weekend I rigged up a feed just from the dieso tank before I do the full Pevekoil valve mods. I also had to charge the battery for around an hour before the engine would turn over fast enough to kick. After the weeks weather it was even more reluctant this time and I gave up after 10 minutes. The engine was so could it had frost over the whole block!

In the end I put the battery on a charge overnite and this morning it was down to 1 Ampere. Fired on the second press of the starter :)

The issue is both one of temperature and I expect the fact that Trig's hasn't done enough mileage to force sufficient charge into the battery. Now assuming the battery is OK (blue top Bosch around 5 years old) I will stick a 'smart' charger from the bike on for a few days and see how that goes. It should show whether there are any battery issues?


OTHER

Not much has happened with the Pevekoil mods. I have the material for the bracket ready to cut and form then there are the holes in the bulkhead to blank from the hand valves.....and the electrikery changes. All this before the valves go in and the pipework connected up.

Front slidey window seals replaced for a bargain rpice opf £7 - delivered.


And the mattress ended up in the log trailer being towed by the boingy (which gives me another job...the trailers electrics are dodgy!) Mmmmm.

21st January 2012 - Air in the diesel supply

Twizzle and I were in transit to the Monday bank holiday ramble about Salisbury Plain with the Series 2 club when Trigger started to lose power while cutting across the back of Bulford ranges.

After pulling over to take a quick look the problem could be seen as soon as the hood was lifted. With some foresight all the fuel lines were run in clear 8mm hose so lumps etc. could easily be seen - and there was a tell tale stream of bubbles hitting the injection pump inlet. Not good.

So we limped home and had to take the Defender on an outing instead, much to the other leafers dismay (ended up recovering one ;) .

The source of the issue was found later in the day. I fitted manual ex-mil fuel selectors fitted (at great expense) to both the dual tank supply and returns during the rebuild. The problem is the supply selector - even fitted a new cork seal before it was bolted in but it is sucking in air. Now I had been warned that this 'may' happen but believing that even then this 'won't happen to me' I carried on and went for what I believed was the KISS principle ;) Now they don't wanna work too well on dieso and SVO!

Both of these military selectors work fine on petrol systems and I have overhauled and fitted new switches so they should fetch +£50 on 'the bay'. This will go towards the new Pevekoil fuel selector valves I have just had landed on the dining room table. These will be switched via a fused supply from an DPST switch on the dash which can also select the relevant fuel sender. This also gets around the usual issue on the microswitches with them seizing if not used for a while! Cost for a pair of valves and a few fittings was £90. A quality looking component but I am a bit concerned over the bore size/restriction through the valve. One port is only 4mm dia. and my current pipework is 6mm ID.

Initially the fuel system will be rigged up to the dieso tank and the changeover carried out gradually. I am finding grabbing enough time on one chunk is a bit strained at the moment ;)