GLOW PLUGS
Ordered yesterday at 1400 and this morning a set of glowplugs get delivered by the postie. I can recommend www.Barry4x4.co.uk !
Now despite it piss'isting with rain all day I thought I would make a start on this job. Yesterday evening and this morning I had put copiuous amounts of GT85 around the plug so I hoped that would break any bond formed after 18 years of being in there?
The first problem was the plug on No.1 cylinder. It was very stiff to turn and then I realised it wasn't turning in the bore but twisting the whole plug body! Ballcocks! If I proceed with stressing it any further I can see this causing me to have the head off. Not something I want to be doing at the moment.
So with the plug about a third up it's thread I have had to leave it there. As luck would have it this is the ONLY plug that is actually still working anyway. As and when I overhaul the top end then I will be far happier putting a bit more force on this or drilling and running a tap down...but not when the head is on!
The other three plugs came out pretty easily and are all marked Beru Germany so I am still confident they are the original ones. Stuck on the bench and with a DVM across them all three are knackered. Resistance measurements of
Plug 4 - 4.5k Ohm (this must have decided to fail since yesterday's check?)
Plug 3 - 140k Ohm
Plug 2 - 1k Ohm
Plug 1 - 0.9 Ohm
The new Allmakes plug was also 0.9 - 1.0 Ohm cold.
Pic below of the three plugs after removal plus the new unit on the right.
Once the new plugs were in (a light smear of coppaslip on the threads) I fired her up..or at least I attempted to, but the relay supply fuse failed after 5 seconds. So, so much for the idea that the fuse will take short bursts of high current? I am an electrical engineer for Pete's sake but that doesn't help when there is no data available for the I2t curve for the automotive fuse LOL. It's obviously faster than a fast thing on a fast day?
Fuse now bypassed (40A and the biggest available in the std automotive blade size) and I tried again with a 15 sec. burst of glow and it fired up like a Swiss (cheap Chinese copy more like) watch.
24 November 2012
23 November 2012
23 Nov 2012 - Fuel system problem fixed!
PEVEKOIL INSTALL
After knocking some ideas around on the S2 forum I took the easy option this morning and removed all the copper sealing washers off the Bosch fuel filter banjos (RH/dieso tank filter). Heated each one to red heat then plonked them into a cold cup of water to anneal them.
Refitted these, ran the system up and once the residual air had cleared through it ran fine. I left the engine running for 15 minutes and kept an eye on it and it still ran OK. No air was visible at the IP inlet. Then selected the LH tank then switched back and all was still good...so I took Trig's for a 5 mile run around the block. No problems at all!!
Who would think that some peanut money washers could cause these sort of problems?
GLOW PLUGS
When I did the first tests using the glow plugs (large jump lead to glow on barrel 4). It made a big difference to starting. Faster tickover and much smoother. I tried it today now the wiring mods are all functional and it didn't seem as good.
Stuck a DC clamp on the supply cable to all the plugs and the initial readable current was only 20 Ampere. No way is that enough to heat four plugs! Disconnecting each from the loom I had the following reading with a quality DVM.
1-1.5 Ohm
2-900 Ohm
3-Open circuit
4-1.3 Ohm
Barrel 2 and 3 are obviously FUBAR'd so I will check into prices. The 'net' consensus suggests the obvious that Sh1tp4rt should be avoided and all others are fine.
I have ordered a set of Allmakes ones for £12.50 delivered. Beru were £50.
BACK TO THE BASICS
After 3 days of engine running issues it took a while for the engine to run smooth again and the tail pipe initially had a lot of black oil residue from part burnt WVO and dieso but after the short run it looked and sounded a lot better.
Vibration is still an issue and I also wonder whether I should regap the rockers agin. I did do it when the engine went in but one does sound a bit rattly compared to the rest - but that might be an injector? It needs a few more miles to really settle down and these will only be done on the RH tank for now. Also even with the glow plug on for 5 seconds before firing it is still a bit smokey on start-up. As mentioned before the engine came out of a D1 that had been 'billied' a bit. Whether someone had tweaked the fueling I do not know. At some point I will consult this and see ---> http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/topic,42295.0.html
As the Smith's heater started weeping again and was disconnected from the cooling system I will pull that out today. All it does is vibe on the bulkhead and as it is currently U/S there is no point in it being there. I just wrap up warm and flick the heated screen on ;)
After knocking some ideas around on the S2 forum I took the easy option this morning and removed all the copper sealing washers off the Bosch fuel filter banjos (RH/dieso tank filter). Heated each one to red heat then plonked them into a cold cup of water to anneal them.
Refitted these, ran the system up and once the residual air had cleared through it ran fine. I left the engine running for 15 minutes and kept an eye on it and it still ran OK. No air was visible at the IP inlet. Then selected the LH tank then switched back and all was still good...so I took Trig's for a 5 mile run around the block. No problems at all!!
Who would think that some peanut money washers could cause these sort of problems?
GLOW PLUGS
When I did the first tests using the glow plugs (large jump lead to glow on barrel 4). It made a big difference to starting. Faster tickover and much smoother. I tried it today now the wiring mods are all functional and it didn't seem as good.
Stuck a DC clamp on the supply cable to all the plugs and the initial readable current was only 20 Ampere. No way is that enough to heat four plugs! Disconnecting each from the loom I had the following reading with a quality DVM.
1-1.5 Ohm
2-900 Ohm
3-Open circuit
4-1.3 Ohm
Barrel 2 and 3 are obviously FUBAR'd so I will check into prices. The 'net' consensus suggests the obvious that Sh1tp4rt should be avoided and all others are fine.
I have ordered a set of Allmakes ones for £12.50 delivered. Beru were £50.
BACK TO THE BASICS
After 3 days of engine running issues it took a while for the engine to run smooth again and the tail pipe initially had a lot of black oil residue from part burnt WVO and dieso but after the short run it looked and sounded a lot better.
Vibration is still an issue and I also wonder whether I should regap the rockers agin. I did do it when the engine went in but one does sound a bit rattly compared to the rest - but that might be an injector? It needs a few more miles to really settle down and these will only be done on the RH tank for now. Also even with the glow plug on for 5 seconds before firing it is still a bit smokey on start-up. As mentioned before the engine came out of a D1 that had been 'billied' a bit. Whether someone had tweaked the fueling I do not know. At some point I will consult this and see ---> http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/topic,42295.0.html
As the Smith's heater started weeping again and was disconnected from the cooling system I will pull that out today. All it does is vibe on the bulkhead and as it is currently U/S there is no point in it being there. I just wrap up warm and flick the heated screen on ;)
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