18th April - Props on and moves under it's own steam!

Yes, I know, it has been far too long since my last post or even much work on Trigger but the bathroom came first and I have been playing with the new two wheeled toy (Triumph Scrambler) so 109 came a sad third.

But some minor progress has now been made.

BRAKES
Using the Easi-bleed I pressurized the system and bled as much air as I could from the new pipework with what fluid I had to hand. Rear seemed easy but of course the usual front end dual piston problems prevailed, I need to 'attack' that again once I have some more DOT4. Currently I need to pump twice to get any feeling of resistance on the pedal. But they do work.

PROPS
New UJ's arrived for the front so that was rebuilt/fitted.

As for the rear the 'original' has been transferred to the scrap heap. On all yokes at least one bearing cap was spinning so the best thing was to weight it in. A replacement Series 2 one was sourced via 'the Bay' then cleaned up and treated to a pair of Hardy-Spicer/GKN's and a new gailter. Refitted and job done!

FUEL SYSTEM
We recently sold our waste veg powered 4x4 before that went I removed the Biotuning heat exchanger. This has now been fitted on Trigger to pre-heat the fuel (dieso or WVO) before it passes through the fuel filter.

Needs some fine tuning on the cooling pipework so the Smith heater works but the parts are on order (BioTuning) and will be easily fixed.

Holes are also now drilled to accomodate the fuel changeover tap for the pump return below the main supply changeover. All I need to fit that is one screw on nipple for the flexi pipework......mmm...beg maybe? It's the same as the ones on all Series fuel tanks after all?

The step this weekend came after fitting the props etc. There was no reason why it could no longer move and stop (after a fashion with badly bled brakes) as long as I didn't need to steer (box to be rebuilt). So why not give it a go?

Fired him up and tried the clutch. Nice smooth action (new AP after all?) and snick the gear into reverse. Also good. Bring up the clutch and....hey we're moving backwards (for 12") then dab the brake pedal and dip the clutch. So far so good. So the into 1st and...12" forwards and stop. Yabba, dabba dooo?  ;)

Now the handbrake is connected to the rear diff the can blocks can be removed from around the wheels too.

Next move is to try to get the brakes bled again then finish the fuel return system. Parts for the steering box rebuild are also sitting in a box waiting for time...etc.