tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-45382382740824624482024-03-13T07:51:51.803+00:00'Trigger' the Series IIA 109 Land Rover - 'The rebuild'Why Trigger? Well it's got a new galv chassis; modified brakes; modern diesel lump......a bit like Trigger's broom. Same broom, had it 20 years just had 14 handles and 17 heads ;)
1966/Series 2a/45ER31/Rover 9 GS UtilityPaul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.comBlogger100125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-86432997609110478252013-11-01T18:25:00.003+00:002013-11-02T13:07:54.426+00:0031 October 2013 - Mintex shoes now on rearAfter cleaning the shoes up the other day they went back to their old games of locking as I backed out in the morning again a few days later. So the new Mintex shoes arrived from P'dcks today and I decided to fit them in between rainstorms.<br />
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They went on without too much of a hitch (other than I fitted trailing shoes on one side and leading on the other initially) and adjusted up easily. The old shoes were always a PITA to set-up and I think the snail cams were jumping off the pins on the shoes?<br />
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With the new shoes I no longer have the need to do a quick short pump on the pedal before a good hard stomp. They are now ready to go on the first press which echoes my thoughts above. The back now locks up good a solid every time!<br />
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From now on I will stick with Mintex for Series brake shoes. The cost difference is <£5 an axle ! ;)Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-52783606079597011422013-10-26T18:05:00.001+01:002013-11-02T13:06:55.621+00:0026 October 2013 - Rear brake mis-behavingFor the third time this week I reversed Trigger out of the drive and the offside rear drum locked with only a dab of brake. The difference in the amount of pedal stroke required to cause it to lock was major. Just a nudge with my toe and I nearly ended up over the rear bulkhead! Rolling back across the drive I could feel the shoes causing a lot of resistance so something wasn't right. Once I drove forward the issue went away.<br />
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Looking at the drums today in between wind and rainstorms there was nothing obvious on either rear assembly. All the springs were present, shoes were perpendicular to the rear plate, no fluid leakage, but there was a build up of powdered shoe material on both the drum and shoe. More so on the offside hub. Not the fine powdered stuff that would be expected to blow away but flattened lumps of it.<br />
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Now I remember that this time last year I was having issues with a weeping offside hub seal at the rear. Though I managed to get all the EP90 off the shoe could it have made it's way into the material and was causing it to break down? I don't believe I changed them. There's nowt in the blog records...mmm. Anyways these shoes aren't Mintex. Prob ChingChong?<br />
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This is the offside leading shoe. Note the surface breaking up at the top edge.<br />
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After giving them and the drums a wipe down with some solvent and a rag they were re-assembled and adjusted up so they were just dragging. Took the 109 out for about 30 miles and all seems fine...for now.<br />
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I will get a set of quality (probably Mintex) shoes ordered up for the rear next week.Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-31050214233704346822013-10-03T19:06:00.002+01:002013-10-03T19:29:36.053+01:0027 Sept 2013 - Yet another fuel tank!!Well after the July attempt and cost of trying to reseal the RH tank it managed to spring a leak within a couple of days. I noticed a small drip under the tank almost the size it was before the repair. Stick my hand under the tank and...yep still leaking.<br />
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I gave it a few more days just to check it wasn't trapped fuel from the last leak but no it was definitely a leak good and proper!<br />
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So what to do? Well at least this leak was very minor and the tank wasn't dropping it's level at any great rate (after 5 weeks the half full tank wasn't empty) and this is diesel/SVO blend not highly flammable petrol?<br />
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As four years ago a military tank is still around £200. This is too spendy so I did the same as before and went with the Britpart offering, which is a good copy of the original rear fill underseat type. OK the metal is not as thick but at £70 delivered you can't argue? Rob down the road was selling his ex-Mil FFR and that had a leaky tank so he donated that one so I could use the filler cap assy as before.<br />
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Now Rob's tank had leaks in almost the same locations as mine so it was worth a prod to see what I could find. Also Rob had POR15 sealed his tank as well when he rebuilt the 109.<br />
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After a combination of heating the solder joints plus a bit of crowbar'ing the support plate came away. The source of the leaks was obvious. The trapped area between the support and the base of the tank had never seen paint and was an ideal trap for 'carp' and water etc.<br />
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I guess this corrosion problem will exist in all tanks of this type. Applying POR15 will seal the internal surface....for a time. But if the material that the coating is stuck to is not stable the leaks will re-appear...and it can only get worse? Really what you need to do is immerse the whole tank in POR15 to do it right?....or buy the later two part pressed type from the usual suspects. They might not look 'correct' but they not have these rust traps!?<br />
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So with Rob's old tank ready to go to recycling I lopped out the old filler with the trusty 4" chop saw and made a similar hole in the new tank, after lopping the rear filler and vent stub off. As this was a new tank I thought I would try soldering. Last time I had to resort to tack welding with the MIG.<br />
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Well the soldering worked. The fresh metal helped and a dose of plumbers flux and the lead/tin solder I had to hand did it's job. This was an old roll that came from SWMBO's late departed Dad's shed. God bless Ken.<br />
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Painted the whole tank with zinc rich primer (as before), then a good coat of exterior black gloss and left it to cure for a week. So, hopefully, this should be jacked into position this weekend. I will stick some underbody wax front and back once it's up and bolted.Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-49816628391967650052013-08-13T12:53:00.000+01:002013-08-13T12:53:25.348+01:0012th August 2013 - New starter motor in....Trigger tried to torch himself!<strong>STARTER MOTOR</strong><br />
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Over the weekend I managed to fit the new Britpart starter motor...which wasn't straight-forward.<br />
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The old one was always a PITA to get in and out between the chassis rail and engine block. It would only 'just' go through, and even then only if you fitted it exactly the right way round. A bit like playing Jenga! The new one wouldn't fit through the access though.<br />
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Checking one against the other I found the new ones flange was very slightly bigger on two of the radii plus also had an additional unnecessary lump. I had to remove said lump and reduce each radius by 3mm. then it would go in. Still a PITA though. I probably wasted 2 hours struggling before I realised the motor assembly wasn't 'exactly' the same.<br />
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A good comment from someone on the S2 forum was to remove the LHS/nearside (if you drive on the <u>correct</u> side of the road) wing support bolted to the chassis rail/wing. This makes a perfect port to put the starter through. Saves all my swearing?<br />
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With the new motor installed it really starts a whole lot easier then the original ever did. Blip the button and Trig's Tdi fires every time...even without the glowplugs.<br />
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Did a 10 mile round trip dump run without any issue. Running sweet.<br />
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<strong>OH....DEAR..........</strong><br />
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Monday morning SWMBO gave me the task of collecting a wendy house for our daughter on my way home. So Trig's had a job for the day. Both tanks were full so a 80 mile round trip including the office would not be a problem.<br />
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10 minutes into the trip as I joined the dual carriageway the engine cut out and the dash lights went dead. Luckily this happened as I reached a layby otherwise I would have been blocking lane 1 of the A303! As I stopped smoke started to waft from under the bonnet in the area of the starter motor.<br />
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I grabbed the fire extinguisher and carefully lifted the bonnet. Yep, definitely smoke ;) I jumped back in the cab and isolated the battery (useful to have a switch?).<br />
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As the smoke cleared I could see the reason for the engine cut-out and the smoke. The main supply cable to the truck electrics and jumped out of position and had welded itself to the exhaust manifold!<br />
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I decided at this point that maybe todays long trip wasn't really a go'er. I bent the now exposed cable away from the manifold into free air and tried the starter. Started fine. I just hope the dual batteries haven't been damaged by the huge current flow?<br />
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Drove back without issue (5 miles) and dropped the LR off at home. I isolated the battery and took another car from the fleet to make the office run.<br />
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Last night I stripped out the offending wiring. The 25mm cable from the starter to the starter button (supplies all the truck +12v bar the starter motor - melted and was the source of the smoke); Battery ground connection 16mm? - this has also melted; battery isolation switch - FUBAR'd.<br />
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Here's the state of the 25mm supply to the starter!<br />
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What this does show is that :-<br />
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1. You should tie the cables down firmly to avoid this (they have been fine for +2 years....but)<br />
2. It pays big dividens to have a battery iso switch! <br />
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The 25mm cable from the battery to the starter survived so that can be reused and I have ordered the same CSA to replace the damaged cables. This and a new batt isolator came to <£20. It could have been A LOT more expensive?!Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-84409620049762955792013-08-05T17:43:00.001+01:002013-08-05T17:44:16.514+01:003rd August - Starter motor gone for a burden!Saturday I had planned to do yet another dump run but my prodding with the starter button only caused the starter to spin and wirr with no cranking over from the engine.<br />
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About 12 months ago I previously replaced the solenoid assembly on the starter but this seemed like something else? <br />
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Starter was stripped out and stuck in a car battery with a pair of 16mm jump leads. Solenoid/coil throws the starter gear forward but the starter wasn't spinning. I put that down to me dropping the cable too soon as they were so damn hot! ;)<br />
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Anyway it seemed good so I lubed up the starter gear assy with coppaslip and refitted it. Same problem. <br />
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The remaining main part of the Valeo starter had originally come with the engine donating Disco. This had 99k miles on the clock. The starter is stamped 1991 so I guess it has had a good innings. Probably the internal clutch has failed? A new one (Britpart offering as 'apparently' they are OK - cheers Lynall) is now on order and should be here the middle of this week.<br />
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Thinking back the starter has been showing some intermittant issues for a while. The odd buzz which then required a second press of the starter button to kick it over. <br />
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Let's see how the new one fairs?Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-38489120451141484872013-07-22T13:58:00.000+01:002013-07-22T13:58:01.533+01:0020 July 2013 - Fuel line plugged/tank back inAs the POR coating was being left to cure for a few days I still needed to do another dump run or two so as the LH tank was running fine with dieso last weekend I thought there wouldn't be any issues. How wrong was I?<br />
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Heading out to the refuse tip on Saturday morning I approached a 1 in 3 hill out of the neighbouring village and then started to lose power on the hill. Then the engine cut out. Oh dear. Fuel starvation. My sudden stop did seem to miff the guy who was up my butt up the hill but there was nowt I could do.<br />
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I managed to get the engine running again and made it to the dump and home again (7 miles) without any further issues.<br />
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Back home I started to strip the system down. First the fuel filter had not been changed for a while so that was swapped. The old one had a foam shroud over it for some additional insulation and once removed I could see that the filter was not tight and had been leaking slightly. So I cleaned everything up and replaced with new O-rings.<br />
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<em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Gunge in the filter</span></em></div>
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Once the engine was fired up it normally takes 5 mins to clear the air out of the system and the fresh filter. Not this time. After 10 mins it was running better but some air continued to appear in the feed lines. Engine was shut down and I pulled the feed tube out of the tank. Trying to blow down it seemed a bit 'restricted'. This is what I found in the right angled section at the outlet.<br />
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<em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Well that's blocked then!!</span></em></div>
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So this was the reason for the Tdi struggling before the drain down then the dieso in throw in there helped to flush even more to the point of the blockage?<br />
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The filler cap was also blocked pretty much. In the end I soaked it first in kerosene and then cleaning solvent. Also torched it in betweeen to see if that would burn the gunge out. Eventually after a second soak in solvent the vents cleared.<br />
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<em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cap started like this. Varnish and polymerisation</span></em></div>
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<em><span style="font-size: x-small;">That'll clean the gunge out?</span></em></div>
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From now on I will restrict the the LH tank to 75% WVO. This will limit the polymerisation and also the varnish built up.<br />
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<strong>RH TANK BACK IN</strong><br />
Once the LH tank feed problems were fixed I could turn my attentions back to the newly lined RH tank.<br />
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Originally this wasn't due to be refitted until the following day but I was due to a local car show the next morning and as the weather had been a pretty steady 27-30 Deg.C since the coating was applied it was now rock solid.<br />
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Tank raised in position via a car scissor jack and a few lumps of wood and filled with 20 litres of pure dieso. No sign of any leakage after a few hours so....touch wood?<br />
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Here's the interior coating before the fuel was chucked it.<br />
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Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-37885225665002595202013-07-17T22:44:00.002+01:002013-07-17T22:44:27.590+01:0017 July 2013 - POR15 in da tank!Well I arrived home to find the pint of POR15 tank seal from Frosts sitting on the doorstep. So I thought I had better get that poured in. Cure time is around 96 hours so the earlier I get that coated up the better?<br />
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The first FUBAR was to pour 500 ml of epoxy coating into the tank through the filler port AND LEAVE THE DAMN DRAIN PLUG OFF! Luckily the funnel spout I placed through the filler port is not over the drain but I still lost around 50-60 ml which ran over the garden table and then onto the patio tiles. Well at least they will never leak?<br />
<br />
The remaining coating was mainly left to settle on the dubious rear wall of the tank and the joint around it. I never had to drain any excess off. What with the premature 'draining' at the start the entire tin was used to re-coat the interior of the tank over the existing coating. Now to wait for it to set, which with the thickness I have laid up will be around Sunday I should think!?<br />
<br />
After 4 hours the coating seems to have spread out evenly so it appears that my cleaning regime with Tescos budget bio auto washing powder may have worked? After all I have coated it once before so the full POR15 'kit' would have been overkill.<br />
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<br />Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-49953510321886235732013-07-13T13:45:00.004+01:002013-07-17T22:48:04.342+01:0013 July 2013 - Houston. We have a definite leak!!<b>RH FUEL TANK</b><br />
After scraping the paint and coatings off the bottom of the tank the other day I took a further closer look last night. There is a definite leak. Not much but a weep around the offside lower seal all the same, so the tank has to come out.<br />
<br />
The tank was drained down and I cracked all the screws this morning then dropped the tank (screws had only been on three years so no issues with them). I also realised this was the 'Bomag tank'. A std rear fill that I had modded to a military'ish spec to do the job. Not that that is an issue.<br />
<br />
Firstly pressure washed after a spray of kerosene and then a stiff scrub with a brush. As per the base of the tank the paint peeled off some areas very easily. Poor prep on my part?<br />
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The inside looked in mint condition bar the grime residue from the WVO/dieso. To degrease and clean out the interior I added two bucket loads of hot water with bio washing detergent to cut through the grime then forced my hand through the filler and gave it another scrub followed by a rinse out with the pressure washer. Then repeat the whole thing again with more hot water/bio/rinse.<br />
<br />
Looking at the internals after it had dried out there was nothing obvious that's causing the leak but the coating does look thin especially on the rear wall. This is a common point of breakthrough anyway. The fuel also seems to be coming from behind the lower section of the support plate at the rear so it is probably leaking from a pinhole, passing between the plates then leaking at the lowest point?<br />
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After the addition of the hot water etc. the paint coating came off easily and in the end around 50% of the old stuff came off. These areas were clean then sanded back with coarse paper to bare metal ready for some quality zinc primer. Two coats of Smith & Allens 'galvafroid' equivalent later it looked like this. Exterior grade black gloss to follow plus black waxoyl underbody seal on the four vertical sides before install.<br />
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The original interior coating was POR15 Tank Seal and last time I used a 950 ml can shared between both tanks. I will stay with the same stuff but I don't really need half a liter...but I will get it anyway as 250 ml is only £7 less! Still £25 a pop!? This will be here next week.<br />
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As Trig's was temporarily down one tank I needed to get him running for the weekend. As the RH tank had already been drained of fuel (around 80% dieso) this was stuck in the LH tank after draining most of that down. I don't want to start the engine cold on high concentration of WVO (even if the weather here is 27-30 Deg.C at the moment).<br />
<br />
I took Trig's for a quick dump run and he ran fine. This was the tank that seemed to be suffering fuel starvation on high WVO levels. So it must be a viscosity problem restricting the flow when this tank is used for high concentrations of WVO?<br />
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<br />Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-1585931062866102922013-07-11T09:34:00.006+01:002013-07-14T11:36:22.459+01:0010th July 2013 - Bits falling off.......Over the past three days Trig's has driven around 250 miles trudging back and forth to the office picking up a French colleague from his hotel on the way (he has a 'thing' about Land Rovers so did not want to disappoint). A far more thorough shakedown run that he has ever been subject to before. A few faults occurred on the way home yesterday....but Trigs trudged on regardless.<br />
<br />
<strong>WOULD NOT START</strong><br />
Pulled up at the hotel and when I went to restart with a hot engine the starter would wind over but the engine would not kick. I had been running on SVO for a few miles so I suspected a fuel blockage.<br />
<br />
Popped the bonnet and, yes that was the case. Switched back to diesel on the RH tank and after a few turns he started and ran. I need to investigate the fuel issue on the LH side (see below).<br />
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<strong>BONNET CATCH</strong><br />
When I went to open the bonnet one of the military catches broke. The central pin pulled through the retaining cap in the end so it was left flapping on the bonnet. I wrapped a bungie around it for the 30 mile run home.<br />
<br />
When I returned home I put a cold chisel/vice/MIG welder to good use and fixed it. They are not designed to be 'servicable' Ha ha!<br />
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<strong>RH FUEL TANK</strong><br />
Looking under the LR before I headed home I noticed a small drip falling from the RH tank. Checking the 2p sized damp patch I found it was definitely diesel. There was a similar damp area under the mud on the tank. It is a minor leak but does look like another issue.<br />
<br />
The twin fuel tanks were the first items to be overhauled when I started stripping the 109 down, back in 2009. Each tank was chem washed and epoxied inside and out with tank seal. I am surprised if that has failed but I need to investigate further.<br />
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<em><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pic from 2009</span></strong></em></div>
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<strong>LH TANK FUEL SUPPLY</strong><br />
The LH tank runs around 75% SVO (maybe more) and was working fine early this week. Once the engine has done 5-6 miles and is up to temp I switch over.<br />
<br />
One morning was a little colder (not that cold as I have had the tilt up and the door tops off) and I noticed that it was suffering fuel starvation under heavy load. Flick to the RH tank and it ran fine.<br />
<br />
So I have a few possible causes:-<br />
<ul>
<li>The fuel line is 6mm ID and uninsulated. Maybe change to a more insulating type of std fuel hose?</li>
<li>I am relying on only the mech lift pump on the Tdi to pull the fuel over. Probably asking too much?</li>
<li>Thin the SVO a bit more with a bit more unleaded?</li>
<li>Tank CAV filter blockage. Doubtful as this was changed a few months back.</li>
<li>Vent blocked. No. Vent taken apart and thoroughly cleaned this week.</li>
</ul>
<br />
Another issue to investigate?Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-71700497629673503572013-06-29T23:00:00.001+01:002013-06-29T23:00:29.728+01:0028th June - Fixed the Tex Magna and steering lock tweaked<br />
<b>INDICATOR FIX</b><br />
On the Series 2 forum and in the latest 'Built to last' the forum member Xenocide came up with the ingenious idea of using a sink plug to replace the original self cancelling rubber wheel on the Tex-Magna indicator stalk on the S2. Well mine like most had perished and the thought that I could fix this for pence caught my attention.<br />
<br />
Original forum thread here ---> <a href="http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/topic,63762.msg589971.html#msg589971">http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/topic,63762.msg589971.html#msg589971</a><br />
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Well I beat the original cost and picked up a new sink plug for 22p! Though it was white but if it works what do I care?<br />
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Read the forum link for the whole method but it works..and works well. I cannot believe I have a 47 year old truck with self cancelling indicators, very RnR?<br />
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<b>STEERING LOCK</b><br />
Shuffling the 109 around in the confines of the local recycling center this week provoked a comment from one ex-squaddy of 60's vintage that he didn't remember the lock being that bad. Driving back home I had a thought.<br />
<br />
I set the steering lock stops for the original 7.50 Goodyear Wranglers. I now have 7.50 Michelin XZL which are narrower. Having a shufty I realised I could crank another 1/4" off each stop which improves the barge like manouvering of the 109 a little...but not a lot. Every little improvement is welcome.Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-19899494080155059962013-06-25T14:59:00.000+01:002013-06-29T22:46:37.469+01:0025th June 2013 - New MOT!!Trig's rolled into the local garage this morning at 1030. I rolled into Weatherspoons for a cardiac fry-up and a coffee and one hour later <em>(they had free WiFi)</em> I return to find he had passed the MOT!<br />
<br />
No advisories at all...bar the fact I forgot to remove the baby seat. So another year for £45.<br />
<br />
...and did I say zero advisories...I can't get my head around that one?<br />
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<strong>BONNET BUMPY BITS</strong><br />
So on a high note I thought I would have another look at the bonnet rattle induced by the cold Tdi at start up and idle.<br />
<br />
A few months back we bought a new washing machine and the transit bolts came fitted with a couple of rubber doughnuts. 'These could be useful' I thought to myself. So they were put to one side for later usefulness.<br />
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Roll on today and with the assistance of a couple of bits of 8mm stud bar, a few nylocs and a bit of drilling I fitted them thus.<br />
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Seems to work ;)Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-16034243858619645612013-06-20T17:22:00.002+01:002013-07-14T11:36:46.123+01:0014th June 2013 - Sump back on and off we go!<b>SUMP BACK ON</b><br />
Well all the expected parts arrived so we were ready to get the whole lot back together. Sump sealed with RTV and left overnight to cure. In the meantime I thought I would check over the tappet clearances again. Last time I set them to dead 8 thou (0.2mm). That is the Haynes specified clearance but I decided to reset to 10 thou. A little bit more play, but better a little bigger than too tight?<br />
<br />
Rocker went on with a new gasket and the side mounted vent filter had a smear of black RTV before re-assy.<br />
<br />
The following morning SWMBO had me scheduled to haul a load of 12ft 4" dia. posts from the local farmers merchant so Trig's had to be fit. 6 'or so' litres of 10/40 went in the hole and he fired and sounded fine. After the 15 mile round trip a quick check showed the sump to be around 1 litre overfull. Well I did say 6 or so and I guess it settled a bit from when I previously measured the level?<br />
<br />
After starting to drain a bit out I decided to dump the lot and refill. The first fill of oil at least gave the lot a good flush through? No harm other than the waste of oil and cleaner internals are never a bad thing?<br />
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Definitely running better (fixing the exhaust helped?) and I don't appear to have any more oil leaks so touch wood......<br />
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Next challenge is to get through the annual MOT next week?Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-28202862294632155502013-06-10T14:01:00.000+01:002013-06-10T14:01:12.048+01:009th June 2013 - Loose steering/loose exhaust/tappet adjust/sump offFirstly, and I seem to remember saying this many times before, where does time go? I just logged back into the blog only to find I have posted b'all since the end of last year? I know time is tight with work/children etc. but I have done a bunch.<br />
<br />
So to summarise the past few months of fettling.<br />
<br />
<strong>GLOW PLUG RELAY etc.</strong><br />
The last one I fitted was never going to be up to the task long term so I ordered a 75A model and an inline 80A fuse. The 'weaker' model was dumped and this lot cobbled in.<br />
<br />
I also looked at the glow plug on No.1 cylinder that was refused to come out last year. Well back then it still worked but now that one has gone TU too. So I tried soaking the exposed threads GT85 over a couple of weeks. Then heating it up with a blow torch to break the bond to no avail. It started to rotate with carefully applied force then sheared.<br />
<br />
That one is now definitely staying in there until I find a reason the head has to come off! So only three plugs but far, far better than none!<br />
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<strong>FUEL SYSTEM MODDED AGAIN</strong><br />
When the fuel selection relays and plumbing went in I initially went with a heat exchanger on the common feed to the injection and lift pump. After reading peoples concerns regarding heating pure diesel (RH tank) I modded the plumbing so just the LH tank which always contained higher concentrations of SVO was heated.<br />
<br />
Thinking about this again recently. The coolant on the engine is thermostatically controlled to about 80 Deg. C. The heat ex is never going to be 100% efficient so therefore I very much doubt the fuel will get as high as that level - even allowing for possible overheat conditions? And what temperature could the diesel tank get to on a hot day anyway (location dependent)?<br />
<br />
So as even the RH tank now runs 30% SVO to 70% dieso I modded the whole lot back again so everything is now going through the HE. As a bonus the air that was getting into the RH tank feed has also gone away and eveything now runs fine on both tanks!<br />
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<strong>LOOSE STEERING</strong><br />
While buried under the bonnet one afternoon I noticed a couple of the bolts securing the steering box to the bulkhead securing plate were loose. Actually all of them were very loose.<br />
<br />
Tightened the lot up which has improved the steering no end ;)<br />
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___________________</div>
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This weekend I started on a bunch of jobs in advance of Trig's annual MOT that's due next month.<br />
<br />
<strong>LOOSE EXHAUST</strong><br />
I took Trigger for a 70 mile round trip to work last week and on the homeward leg I heard a ping and a rattle as I was driving through town. It sounded like a bolt to me but I carried on regardless and everything seemed fine.<br />
<br />
Roll on that evening and while doing a quick check I found that the side exit silencer box was hanging at a jaunty angle. Not the sort of jaunty angle it should be hanging at either.<br />
<br />
Checking the pipework one of the bolts on one flange was completely missing and the other two were loose. Now fixed and secondary nyloks added to each screw. I should notice a difference once Trig's is fired up again.<br />
<br />
<strong>SUMP OFF...</strong><br />
As the weather was good I thought I would whip the sump off for a general check on the condition of the engine. <br />
<br />
When I bought the Disco that donated this engine it had 99k on the clock and the engine seemed good and strong. But I didn't know how it had been maintained so it was more a gut instinct than anything else. Since then I have been running SVO and the general<em> 'man in the pub'</em> on the forums believes the sump will now contain 'killer jelly' due to SVO passing the rings and other such horrors. So what better than a close up inspection?<br />
<br />
I was changing the oil anyway and cleaning this out should keep the oil cleaner for longer. Sump came off without any dramas and was fine internally. A quick wipe with some kerosene and the internals were as good as new. This will go back on next weekend.<br />
<br />
While the sump was off the oil pick-up filter was also given a rinse.<br />
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<strong>TAPPET ADJUST</strong></div>
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The rocker cover vent had been leaking around the gasket and side vent filter so that all came off for a clean. While it was dismantled I ran over the tappet clearances as they hadn't been checked for 2 years since the engine went in.</div>
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They were out but only by a few thou.</div>
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So next weekend the engine should be back together. RTV for the sump, new oil filters and oil and a rocker gasket should be with me by Friday. Oil this time is from Smith and Allan who I have used before for the boingy TD5 lube. Their semi syn 10/40W was £56/20 litres delivered!</div>
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Over the past few weeks Trigger has been used to get the dogs out on Salisbury Plain, haul horse stuff about and attend a couple of shows. The last one being the Codford Vintage and Nostalia show last week. Though he wasn't on the Series 2 Club stand he did make it to the vintage parking area on Sunday. Sun was out so tilt was up and door tops off!!</div>
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Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-34356005749913001702012-11-24T16:56:00.000+00:002012-11-24T17:00:59.756+00:0024th November 2012 - Glow plugs now working...after a fashion!<strong>GLOW PLUGS</strong><br />
Ordered yesterday at 1400 and this morning a set of glowplugs get delivered by the postie. I can recommend <a href="http://www.barry4x4.co.uk/">www.Barry4x4.co.uk</a> !<br />
<br />
Now despite it piss'isting with rain all day I thought I would make a start on this job. Yesterday evening and this morning I had put copiuous amounts of GT85 around the plug so I hoped that would break any bond formed after 18 years of being in there?<br />
<br />
The first problem was the plug on No.1 cylinder. It was very stiff to turn and then I realised it wasn't turning in the bore but twisting the whole plug body! Ballcocks! If I proceed with stressing it any further I can see this causing me to have the head off. Not something I want to be doing at the moment. <br />
<br />
So with the plug about a third up it's thread I have had to leave it there. As luck would have it this is the ONLY plug that is actually still working anyway. As and when I overhaul the top end then I will be far happier putting a bit more force on this or drilling and running a tap down...but not when the head is on!<br />
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The other three plugs came out pretty easily and are all marked Beru Germany so I am still confident they are the original ones. Stuck on the bench and with a DVM across them all three are knackered. Resistance measurements of <br />
<br />
Plug 4 - 4.5k Ohm (this must have decided to fail since yesterday's check?)<br />
Plug 3 - 140k Ohm<br />
Plug 2 - 1k Ohm<br />
Plug 1 - 0.9 Ohm<br />
<br />
The new Allmakes plug was also 0.9 - 1.0 Ohm cold.<br />
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Pic below of the three plugs after removal plus the new unit on the right.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8tdeRg2nvss3767L-VUCgIYDwGdTLQ88coFsnDXW9h9Yf9qEy73gWU0aDqIUyg7zwnvXcbMdYjP5R9clZy94w4TXU7zG2OjJFuXjerlh5UCsvZ8yONPwhBlVFFKJ9eaPytM4ihI3qVImN/s1600/IMGP1858.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8tdeRg2nvss3767L-VUCgIYDwGdTLQ88coFsnDXW9h9Yf9qEy73gWU0aDqIUyg7zwnvXcbMdYjP5R9clZy94w4TXU7zG2OjJFuXjerlh5UCsvZ8yONPwhBlVFFKJ9eaPytM4ihI3qVImN/s400/IMGP1858.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once the new plugs were in (a light smear of coppaslip on the threads) I fired her up..or at least I attempted to, but the relay supply fuse failed after 5 seconds. So, so much for the idea that the fuse will take short bursts of high current? I am an electrical engineer for Pete's sake but that doesn't help when there is no data available for the I2t curve for the automotive fuse LOL. It's obviously faster than a fast thing on a fast day? <br />
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Fuse now bypassed (40A and the biggest available in the std automotive blade size) and I tried again with a 15 sec. burst of glow and it fired up like a Swiss (cheap Chinese copy more like) watch.<br />
Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-77123663110876506212012-11-23T11:50:00.002+00:002012-11-23T14:31:23.467+00:0023 Nov 2012 - Fuel system problem fixed!<strong>PEVEKOIL INSTALL</strong><br />
After knocking some ideas around on the S2 forum I took the easy option this morning and removed all the copper sealing washers off the Bosch fuel filter banjos (RH/dieso tank filter). Heated each one to red heat then plonked them into a cold cup of water to anneal them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2nY1vmuQs1ZfPZ75QCE9uu8oFix8QC4XSh3RAZoXI5MNaGfoS9oINHnyXQzHq5tKRMmThI29DriWFDEKxmpu7lMK0-tTxDe-5nUyp4SW7rRciKQ9owHwIQJdZSJWFbUXvRXBT7mj2qp1x/s1600/IMGP1855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2nY1vmuQs1ZfPZ75QCE9uu8oFix8QC4XSh3RAZoXI5MNaGfoS9oINHnyXQzHq5tKRMmThI29DriWFDEKxmpu7lMK0-tTxDe-5nUyp4SW7rRciKQ9owHwIQJdZSJWFbUXvRXBT7mj2qp1x/s320/IMGP1855.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
Refitted these, ran the system up and once the residual air had cleared through it ran fine. I left the engine running for 15 minutes and kept an eye on it and it still ran OK. No air was visible at the IP inlet. Then selected the LH tank then switched back and all was still good...so I took Trig's for a 5 mile run around the block. No problems at all!!<br />
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Who would think that some peanut money washers could cause these sort of problems?<br />
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GLOW PLUGS<br />
When I did the first tests using the glow plugs (large jump lead to glow on barrel 4). It made a big difference to starting. Faster tickover and much smoother. I tried it today now the wiring mods are all functional and it didn't seem as good.<br />
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Stuck a DC clamp on the supply cable to all the plugs and the initial readable current was only 20 Ampere. No way is that enough to heat four plugs! Disconnecting each from the loom I had the following reading with a quality DVM.<br />
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1-1.5 Ohm<br />
2-900 Ohm<br />
3-Open circuit<br />
4-1.3 Ohm<br />
<br />
Barrel 2 and 3 are obviously FUBAR'd so I will check into prices. The 'net' consensus suggests the obvious that Sh1tp4rt should be avoided and all others are fine. <br />
<br />
I have ordered a set of Allmakes ones for £12.50 delivered. Beru were £50.<br />
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<strong>BACK TO THE BASICS</strong><br />
After 3 days of engine running issues it took a while for the engine to run smooth again and the tail pipe initially had a lot of black oil residue from part burnt WVO and dieso but after the short run it looked and sounded a lot better.<br />
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Vibration is still an issue and I also wonder whether I should regap the rockers agin. I did do it when the engine went in but one does sound a bit rattly compared to the rest - but that might be an injector? It needs a few more miles to really settle down and these will only be done on the RH tank for now. Also even with the glow plug on for 5 seconds before firing it is still a bit smokey on start-up. As mentioned before the engine came out of a D1 that had been 'billied' a bit. Whether someone had tweaked the fueling I do not know. At some point I will consult this and see ---> <a href="http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/topic,42295.0.html">http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/topic,42295.0.html</a><br />
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As the Smith's heater started weeping again and was disconnected from the cooling system I will pull that out today. All it does is vibe on the bulkhead and as it is currently U/S there is no point in it being there. I just wrap up warm and flick the heated screen on ;)Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-6959257699117498872012-11-22T22:05:00.001+00:002012-11-22T22:10:32.466+00:0022 November 2012 - Pevekoils fitted and a bunch of other fettlin''Another two week vacation to absorb more outstanding holiday before the end of the year and in between baby minding I had a list of jobs I wanted to do on Trigger.<br />
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<b>PASSENGER DOOR</b><br />
This has never closed easily and luckily it didn't need much adjustment. It now closes as 'easily' as the RH one.<br />
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ELECTRIC'ERY</div>
</b>Fitted a pair of cigar lighter sockets to the dash for occassional pluggy type stuff. then rewired the CB and fitted that to the rear bulkhead. A much better location and quality of bodging than before.<br />
Dash backlights were fitted with 'high power LED's' some time ago and turned out to be pretty much useless. As much light emitted as an ignited farting mosquito. So I picked up the std bulb from the local hal'frauds. 49p for two with a trade discount and I can actually see the dash now when it is dark.<br />
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<strong>GLOW PLUGS</strong><br />
The Tdi came with glow plugs, though I had never wired them up as every comment on the net says 'why bother?' Yes it will start from cold without, but why strain everything when there is this simple alternative?<br />
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The cable loom was salvaged and I dragged it out of a box and fitted it....but the relay didn't work. Checked the relay manu date on the side and it was stamped '94 so probably died due to old age? A replacement was going to be around £30 so I went for a cheaper option.<br />
<br />
A std automotive 40 Amp relay will take 120 Amp for 3 seconds without detriment (at least the Tyco ones do). Current load on a full compliment of tdi heaters is around 90 Amps for a fraction of a second and then drops off to around 60 Amps. They will only be enabled for 3-5 Seconds anyway. Also I will use a manual toggle switch so I only have to use them when necessary...and the cold start light on the dash can easily be made to work when the plugs are working.<br />
<br />
Total cost for the relay £1.20. So I splashed out on a natty little socket for it with an integrated fuse holder. All in, with postage it came to £5.20!<br />
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Works fine!<br />
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<strong>PEVEKOILS Etc.</strong><br />
I had been avoiding getting these installed for months but I thought while I had the dash apart for the glow mods I would start the wiring for these....and I ended up doing the whole install.<br />
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Changed the pipework a bit. I no longer heat the dieso and have re-routed so only the LH WVO/dieso tank feed passes through the heat exchanger. Both tanks have independent filters. A CAV type on the LH and the original tdi spin on Bosch type for the RH.<br />
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Here is a 'quality' image of the current layout.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS9ckiz_iCz7lmXAISnXX752HbsN2dLBghJRCHKEQ3_RRnxCnISNg-j05Ot2kNlg4iv_Xwtm5V5qUWd7OzqnhqmUsAVH87MYzharx5gMHgH1OW0jK78YU8qovBKB4YlG1SMvL0IeyaSdsU/s1600/trigger+fuel+system.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS9ckiz_iCz7lmXAISnXX752HbsN2dLBghJRCHKEQ3_RRnxCnISNg-j05Ot2kNlg4iv_Xwtm5V5qUWd7OzqnhqmUsAVH87MYzharx5gMHgH1OW0jK78YU8qovBKB4YlG1SMvL0IeyaSdsU/s640/trigger+fuel+system.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Now three days in I still haven't managed to get the system working without problems. <br />
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<ol>
<li>The first problem was the inability to draw from the LH tank. Tank had not been used for months and had been left empty so the filter was changed as it may have gummed up due to the WVO. </li>
<li>Air leaks at various points. Lots of fault finding and hose changes to quality SAE J30 R6 fuel hose.</li>
<li>RH tank (dieso) the filter didn't seem to want to allow fuel to pass through. The system would run and starve itself of fuel. Changed the filter for a new one and it would not run at all. Then noticed that I had fitted a TD5 filter (much finer filtering and therefore needs a stronger pump) and not the tdi type. Bypassed that and all was well.</li>
<li>Everything was running fine until I fitted a fresh tdi filter and reconnected the bypass. I had the same problem with fuel starvation! Bypass the filter housing again and all was good with the world mmmmmm.</li>
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So that is where we are now. The fault is either a porous housing (which always used to work), leaks around the copper sealing washers on the banjos (I just fitted these and didn't anneal) or the lift pump isn't sucking enough. The final idea I believe to be a red herring as it draws fine from the LH 'veg' tank which is more viscous.<br />
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Here's a pic of the current Pevekoil fittment and the glow relay to the rear on bulkhead to the right of the fuse box. tdi filter cart currently removed and housing bypassed.<br />
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Back to this tomorrow (weather permitted) and the first step will be to soften those copper banjo washers ;)</div>
Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-10706343543657739622012-10-01T12:31:00.000+01:002013-10-26T18:09:23.652+01:001st October 2012 - Hub sealsDuring yet another run to dump <b>more</b> garden rubbish down the tip I spotted a oil trace on the inside of the OS rear tyre. Also a small one on NS rear.A quick finger test showed this to be EP90...or at least a blend of that and axle grease.<br />
<br />
I stripped the hub down (then remembered I had not stripped a hub seal for nearly 10 years!) and the hub seal was showing signs of weeping around the distance piece/seal land. The land had some surface corrosion. <br />
<br />
Casting my mind back to 2008-9 when this axle was 'overhauled' I only checked over the seal arrangement and it all seemed good..at the time. So to save peanuts I left it 'as is'. Maybe that was a mistake and a few years aging had finished it off, who knows? So the assembly was stripped down and everything cleaned up in kero ready for a parts delivery from Paddocks.<br />
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The distance piece was removed in my std fashion of drilling the surface with a pilot drill and opening the hole up to 8mm - followed by a good hard wack with a cold chisel. Works every time ;)<br />
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The mistake I did make was ordering the wrong hub seals. I accidentally clicked on the RTC3511G (S3 >80/81 and Defender) and not the 3510 - muppet! Luckily I had a spare 3510 hanging at the back of the shelf and dropped that in. But the hub seals will always be useful for the 90. <br />
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One issue was the internal dia of the new distance piece. This had been stored in the freezer for 4 days prior to fitting (a tad excessive). That should have opened the dia up sufficiently, but it was still too tight. On checking with the vernier the dia's were fine but the axle tube had a small ripple at the end causing a bit of fouling - but good tap using the hub spanner and a 3lb mallet did the trick.<br />
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The NS was also stripped and cleaned and the new distance piece fitted. Plus I corrected the odd brake cam adjusters (one cam stripped when I fitted them a while back meaning I only had 3 of one type...so I used the SWB front one). Despite this the hub initially looked to have a better seal than the NS one. Stripping it down showed this to not be the case. It was far worse than the other side. The brake shoes were fine but there was a lot of gunge in there.<br />
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I also checked out the weepy OS front hub. The leak turned out to be a couple of loose bolts holding the swivel assembly onto the axle casing. I tightened these up and hopefully all will now be fine?Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-36843467448914564282012-08-20T16:27:00.001+01:002013-07-17T22:51:33.881+01:0019th August 2012 - Engine mounts changed/rattly bonnet!<b>ENGINE MOUNT SWAP</b><br />
<br />
Last weekend I managed to remove the old engine rubber mounts fit the new larger genuine Defender 200tdi rubbers (ANR1808).<br />
<br />
This was not an easy job and a few chops were needed to the the LH rubber to get it to fit - but after two days of cursing the mounts were in.<br />
<br />
I discovered that I had fitted an old Dunlop Metalastic unit on the RH side of the block. This was a secondhand unit I had rolling about in a box that I put in as a stopgap - and then forgot about. On the RH side I had a pattern Series diesel rubber. This was only a few years old so still in good order. <br />
<br />
The gearbox had already been fitted with the later 200tdi type. So I left that for now.<br />
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The pic below shows all three. From the left - Old Dunlop, Series diesel, new ANR1808.<br />
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So did this improve anything? Yes...and no.<br />
<br />
The trans brake no longer jumps a few notches over bumps but the vibes to the body have increased due to increased rigidity of the new mountings. But now the bonnet rattles at low revs just up from tick-over. <br />
<br />
In all honestly I think the original mounts would do the job fine if in good condition. The Dunlop definitely wasn't. Personally I would go with the Series Diesel mounts if I had to decide on rubbers again...cheaper to!<br />
<br />
Now the new vibes are causing the bonnet to rattle at low revs, which is most annoying. I have initially narrowed this down to loose bonnet catches. These catches both date from the 60's and after all these years of exposure seem to be full of rust + springs that have lost their power. To replace these with new would cost £90 for genuine and £60 for pattern!<br />
<br />
An alternative solution will be to 'nick' the two spring clips that hold down the FFR battery cover in the cab. These have always been under cover and are in superb condition. So next weekend I will get these switched around and see if the bonnet 'wobble' is calmed down a tad.<br />
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<br />
<br />
This weekend SW England went through a bit of heatwave and I needed to use Trig's for a few rubble runs to the tip and assorted other errands. So for the first time ever I took the door tops off to get a bit of additional ventilation after rolling the tilt up. Yep, I have never done that before - surprising I know!<br />
<br />
I plan to do this again so I then decided to review the door liner setup. I bought a complete set including elbow rests new from Exmoor trim a year or so ago during the rebuild and now I have decided to ditch most of it. The upper panel and elbow rest is now off and in the garage and I plan to flog these on the S2 forum soon. They won't be used again. Removing these makes it easier to get at the door top nuts next time.<br />
<br />
....and I fitted the door handles Stu!Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-88535452052689387152012-07-25T17:21:00.000+01:002012-08-20T17:01:45.100+01:0025th July 2012 - Washer bottle/lift pump and another MOT!LIFT PUMP <br />
<div style="text-align: left;">After last months poor performace issue the Allmakes lift pump was fitted (took 20 minutes) and all is good in the world :) Runs well now and with the UK being in a 'heatwave' the 200tdi is running fine on processed WVO and 10% ULSP. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">SCREEN WASHER </div><div style="text-align: left;">The washer pump packed up and as getting a replacement Lucas one looked to be a bit spendy I sourced a complete bottle and pump assembly for the pricely sum of £7 delivered - off the Bay. Works fine and the old bottle one was leaking anyway so this is a win win - if you're not worried about originality? <br />
<br />
Both of the repairs above made the 109 ready for his annual........<br />
<br />
MOT <br />
Trig's went in for the annual test and came back with only a few minors. Steering relay and the steering relay drop arm had some play and the brakes need adjusting up. Otherwise walked it. It shows that these guys pick up stuff that we just get used to as tightening all the 'loose' bits up has improved the steering wander no end! <br />
<br />
BRAKES<br />
After the pointers above I adjusted up the trans and front brakes but the back end seems to be an issue. I then remembered having issues with the cam adjusters on the rear axle so that looks like another job to get ironed out?<br />
<br />
ENGINE/GEARBOX MOUNTS <br />
Since Trig's has being doing a few veggy miles recently while being pursued by the aroma of fried Sprats I have begun to notice how often the trans brake clicks up a few notches after going over bumps. <br />
<br />
Back when I fitted the gearbox and engine mounts I just used whatever I had about. Probably all Series petrol mounts of varying ages and manufacturers. So probably not the best choice? The popular choice seems to be Defender 200tdi ANR1808 on both points - also genuine ones are preferred. <br />
<br />
So order now placed for one pair of genuine for the engine and a pattern set for the gearbox. At £10 plus tax and del for the genuine I will only stretch to one set - miser! Note one of the engine mounts will have to be hacksawed slightly to fit the Series petrol mounts. It has to be hacksawed, a 4" slitting disk will make a right mess when it hits the rubber! <br />
<br />
After dropping the suspension a few months ago I got around to modding the log trailer so that now also levels up better on both Trig's and the Defenders tow hitches. To do this I made up a 2" box riser section for the 50mm ball hitch. It now sits dead level on the 90 and is pretty much fine on the 109 - even better when the 109 gets a load of logs in the bed!</div><br />
So jobs to do at the moment......<br />
<br />
1. Check the rear axle brake snail cams<br />
2. New engine and gbx mounting rubbers<br />
3. Alternator upgrade<br />
4. Pevekoil install<br />
<br />
PS - twin battery mod working well and fires now on a sniff of the starter button.Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-24148817090878083522012-06-20T08:52:00.001+01:002012-06-20T11:33:17.595+01:0020th June - Reproof/air'y fuel/screen washer/battery<strong>BATTERY PROBLEMS - AGAIN!</strong><br />
Trig's has been idle for the past few months, other than odd hauling trips to the refuse site after clearing garden debris and other accumulated toot. Due to lack of use I put him on the smart charger to keep the recently fitted battery at 100% and ready to RnR. This was all good until this weekend.<br />
<br />
On Saturday I did the usual haul and popped into Rob's while I was in the vicinity. Distance to the tip is 5 miles and Rob is just around the corner so probably 3-4 starts in that time. Next day I started up to shuffle the 109 around the yard. When I attempted to move it back the batt had run out of puff. Batt volts had dropped to just under 12.0vdc so 30 mins on the std charger fixed that.<br />
<br />
Now the battery I have installed has enough CCA to kick over a 2.5 diesel in a Nissan Terrano (that's where it came from) so should be up to the job? But the alternator fitted is the std Lucas used on the 2.25 petrol. Obviously that has much lower compression than the Tdi - so less amps required to turn in over. So is the alternator just not up to pushing in enough charge? I will need to check whether Twizzle used that Disco alternator I gave him when we were stripping that down?<br />
<br />
In the meantime the battery tray had room for another 069. I had the old matching 069 in the garage so that went in in parrallel with the existing one. Knocked up some brackets and now I need to find some heavy gauge cable to connect it up. At least this way I have maximum storage potential? Around 1200CCA possible (though the cables won't support that for long)?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAva8_OFqwuHz53f8ecCp2kvNtztZT-_dDw4tiKkGEBJe5lsap2LPT5WkMxOQjt-WPcHHAaSLRpfl_ZLxx19CTBDP0VIuhv6dYy9KKYfcGLCcKVze7jfqSlmWyYPvborvSeV6vmV4rQwNg/s1600/P1010614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" rca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAva8_OFqwuHz53f8ecCp2kvNtztZT-_dDw4tiKkGEBJe5lsap2LPT5WkMxOQjt-WPcHHAaSLRpfl_ZLxx19CTBDP0VIuhv6dYy9KKYfcGLCcKVze7jfqSlmWyYPvborvSeV6vmV4rQwNg/s320/P1010614.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
<strong>REPROOF THE TILT</strong><br />
Last year I bought in a 5 litre can of Fabsil to reproof the tilt and have been waiting for a few dry days so I can get the job done. Britsh Summer at it's best? <br />
<br />
This weekend had a few bright hours so I thought I would wing it.<br />
<br />
Friday evening I sprayed the tilt with diluted Jeyes fluid to kill off any mould. That sat for 6-8 hours..and conveniently it rained. So that neutralised that - Result! Roll on Sunday and the sun came out and dried everything nicely, so out came the brush and 4 litres later it was proofed. Rain came down that evening and proved all was good.<br />
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<strong>AIR IN FUEL - AGAIN</strong><br />
Moving the 109 around this week revealed that the old chestnut of air in the diesel.<br />
<br />
Pulling hoses and bypassing stuff located the problem. The fuel pipe from main tank to the heat exchanger had 6 joints and an in-line 'bio filter'. Filter was blocked with muck and one of the joints was allowing air in with the increased suction.<br />
<br />
As I had already done with the LH tank the in-filter was dumped (on the LH filter I changed for a huge CAV unit) and replaced most of it with one section of rubber reinforced fuel hose. Tests show it all to be good.<br />
<br />
While testing I noticed that the lift pump on the side of the Tdi block no longer pumps by hand. Sounds like that is also a bit faulty, so I have ordered one of those. £17 delivered for an Allmakes one.<br />
<br />
At the moment I am running only running from the RH tank with a blend of 50/50 SVO/dieso and I still need to get the Petzoil valves rigged up.<br />
<br />
<strong>WASHER BOTTLE</strong><br />
The bottle and pump were salvaged off the 109 before the rebuild and the pump finally gave up the ghost. Googling/Ebay'ing around I found I could get a new reservoir (bigger that the current and without a crack in it) for only £15 delivered including jets and hose. Not that I need those bits. Placed the order and now waiting for that to turn up.<br />
<br />
<br />
.........................And I still haven't had the tracking set-upPaul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-24798523039206871722012-03-17T20:10:00.004+00:002012-03-18T22:12:36.480+00:0017th March 2012 - XZL's on and suspension dropped<strong>SUSPENSION DROP</strong><br />
For some time I planned to drop the leaf spring front mounts to their lower point. The military spec chassis comes with an option of two positions...and I went for the higher one when Trigger was built up....as most do. I now find that with the Rocky Mount parabolics underneath that the tow hitch is too high. I don't really need all that height anyway.<br />
<br />
So today out came the high-lift (haven't touched one of those in 10 years so I played safe and read the instructions again, first!) and assorted spannery things.<br />
<br />
The front drop was straight-forward and lulled me into thinking the rear would be too. It wasn't and I had to use two hydraulic jacks to tweak each spring into alignment with the new 'fresh' hole.<br />
<br />
So the height change was as follows for A & B from the center of the arch to ground.<br />
<br />
<div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEynAnx-LvCeTixDFF1Z-4zJFPvDVBLFYV-p8yaacIaJ8RIBgVgN73RzH5xk-ft2XwDD7KXIxLkqA3EWf35xQONLq2mcglVvXalcTOmPesR8MnmaUlaWuy2M0dd3gZjs3BHEnp5F0YQ3OH/s1600/LR+dims.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEynAnx-LvCeTixDFF1Z-4zJFPvDVBLFYV-p8yaacIaJ8RIBgVgN73RzH5xk-ft2XwDD7KXIxLkqA3EWf35xQONLq2mcglVvXalcTOmPesR8MnmaUlaWuy2M0dd3gZjs3BHEnp5F0YQ3OH/s320/LR+dims.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Initially A=98cm B=93cm. The springs were then dropped to their second chassis position which then gave A=97cm and B=91cm. So b-all drop at the rear due to the length of the back spring and the geometry.<br />
<br />
To get the rear lower I decided on removing the '1 tonne' shackles and fitting a spare 'SWB' set I had to hand. Pic shows the length comparison.<br />
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Now I had A=95cm and B=91cm. Much better IMHO ;) I now need to dig the trailer out and see how that sits. It will have a pitch but it will be around 4cm lower than it was.<br />
<br />
<strong>TYRES</strong><br />
After a very quick turn-around by the dedicated S2 tyre guy (cheers Mark D) 5x tyres and rims went off with the 4x new XZL's and came back a week later all fitted plus 4x now spare Lassa's to put on 'the bay'.<br />
<br />
The XZL's are much narrower on the tread block than most 750's but this due to their design intention - to cut through the soft stuff and find something firm. A quick run around the block shows the ride to be better than before with less sway. But some of that is also probably due to the new reduction in C of G ;)<br />
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Here he is as he was a few months back...<br />
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Here's Trig with new boots and in 'Chicano' mode! <br />
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Honestly it is lower.<br />
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Just measured from the floor to the top of the tow ball and on Trig's it is 26". On the Defender it is 22".Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-59257346016287422342012-02-26T21:48:00.002+00:002012-02-26T21:48:45.140+00:0025 Feb 2012 - New battery fitted.The new Bosch 069 batt arrived and was duly charged overnight and dropped into Trigger. First push of the button after a overa weeks layover and he fired first time - RESULT.<br />
<br />
One job down and several more still outstanding ;)Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-47595878556554440992012-02-18T21:15:00.006+00:002013-10-31T15:47:43.269+00:0018th February 2012 - Batt dying & new tyres hauled home<strong>BATTERY</strong><br />
Well the story of the 'dodgy' Bosch battery didn't get better and it seems that either due to age or more probably my treatment of the battery it has now decided it is no longer up to the job of kicking Trigger over. The final test was 2 days charging and even then I had to use the Defender batt and some jump leads to kick the engine over. It just doesn't have the strength anymore.<br />
<br />
To that end the current Bosch is going to have to be relegated to a backup for the CB and ancilliaries via a split charge. The main battery was going to be replaced with a Halfords 096 I had been given but that is 10mm too wide. In the end I have ordered another Bisch S4 069 size which fits in the FFR dual battery position without issue. Online price only £62 delivered.<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>TYRES</strong><br />
The crossply Lassa's currently fitted to Trigger originally came off the Tdi engine donating Discovery and were always looked on to be a temporary fit. They are well past their best anyway and while legal they don't have much bite when the going gets rough and also have poor road grip and handling when compared to a newer radial./<br />
<br />
So looking at the options :-<br />
<br />
a) I have 4x Goodyear Wrangler AT's on the old SWB rims. 2x good and 2x not so good. I could strip these off and fit.<br />
b) Buy new. Tyre prices for LR sized rubber seems to have rocketed recently due to the credit crunch or profitering (you judge). Even Fedima Extreme Evo are £120 a corner and they are remoulds. The std Extreme is £100. All in 750x16, a size I will stick with.<br />
<br />
In the end I went with a variation of b).<br />
<br />
I also sent a mail to LW Vass to see what they had to hand. After a week I had nothing back so I moved on.<br />
<br />
Checking Ebay regularly I spotted a couple of sets of 4 <u>new</u> Michelin XZL's. One set in Scotland and another 'closer' to home near Hereford. The Hereford one was then suddenly removed from auction 12 hours before it was due to finish by a 'buy it now' at £300. Baring in mind XZL's retail at £140-180 unfitted - each!<br />
<br />
Not having anything to lose I set the seller a mail saying I was watching the auction and if he had held out I would have bidded more than that and driven up to collect in the next few days. 10 hours later I receved a mail back to say the original BiN buyer thought the tyres were in Hertfordshire and they were still for sale. Mailed the seller back, then followed up with a call and agreed £320.<br />
<br />
Here they are....<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><em>My 16 year old tom cat even manages to hobble into the pic</em></span></div>
<br />
So new quality radial tyres that have been in storage for a few years. Not remoulds. Tough sidewalls. Can run tubless or tubed. Result! Now I need to get them fitted.....and maybe find another as a spare.<br />
<br />
Should keep Trigger going for a while and no doubt someone on the Bay will buy the old set of Lassas? Also I have an interested party of the Wranglers too.<br />
<br />
<strong>OTHER</strong><br />
Both military fuel valve assemblies sold and raised £40 towards the electric Pevekoil valves. One is on it's way to Portugal.<br />
<br />
Nothing done with the fuel setup yet. I will get the battery and tyres out of the way first.<br />
<br />
I now have a pair of interior door handles though. Cheers Twizzle!Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-64413044212788428252012-02-05T11:24:00.002+00:002012-02-05T11:29:14.831+00:004th February 2012 - 200tdi will not fire<strong>TOO BL**DY COLD TO START!?</strong><br />
<br />
After a full week of -3 to -9 Deg.C and Trigger just sitting and going no-where I decided I needed Trig's to haul a kingsize mattress down to the tip.<br />
<br />
Last weekend I rigged up a feed just from the dieso tank before I do the full Pevekoil valve mods. I also had to charge the battery for around an hour before the engine would turn over fast enough to kick. After the weeks weather it was even more reluctant this time and I gave up after 10 minutes. The engine was so could it had frost over the whole block!<br />
<br />
In the end I put the battery on a charge overnite and this morning it was down to 1 Ampere. Fired on the second press of the starter :)<br />
<br />
The issue is both one of temperature and I expect the fact that Trig's hasn't done enough mileage to force sufficient charge into the battery. Now assuming the battery is OK (blue top Bosch around 5 years old) I will stick a 'smart' charger from the bike on for a few days and see how that goes. It should show whether there are any battery issues?<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>OTHER</strong><br />
<br />
Not much has happened with the Pevekoil mods. I have the material for the bracket ready to cut and form then there are the holes in the bulkhead to blank from the hand valves.....and the electrikery changes. All this before the valves go in and the pipework connected up.<br />
<br />
Front slidey window seals replaced for a bargain rpice opf £7 - delivered.<br />
<br />
<br />
And the mattress ended up in the log trailer being towed by the boingy (which gives me another job...the trailers electrics are dodgy!) Mmmmm.Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4538238274082462448.post-34637594873063016032012-01-23T15:19:00.004+00:002012-01-28T10:15:09.247+00:0021st January 2012 - Air in the diesel supplyTwizzle and I were in transit to the Monday bank holiday ramble about Salisbury Plain with the Series 2 club when Trigger started to lose power while cutting across the back of Bulford ranges.<br />
<br />
After pulling over to take a quick look the problem could be seen as soon as the hood was lifted. With some foresight all the fuel lines were run in clear 8mm hose so lumps etc. could easily be seen - and there was a tell tale stream of bubbles hitting the injection pump inlet. Not good.<br />
<br />
So we limped home and had to take the Defender on an outing instead, much to the other leafers dismay (ended up recovering one ;) .<br />
<br />
The source of the issue was found later in the day. I fitted manual ex-mil fuel selectors fitted (at great expense) to both the dual tank supply and returns during the rebuild. The problem is the supply selector - even fitted a new cork seal before it was bolted in but it is sucking in air. Now I had been warned that this 'may' happen but believing that even then this 'won't happen to me' I carried on and went for what I believed was the KISS principle ;) Now they don't wanna work too well on dieso and SVO!<br />
<br />
Both of these military selectors work fine on petrol systems and I have overhauled and fitted new switches so they should fetch +£50 on 'the bay'. This will go towards the new Pevekoil fuel selector valves I have just had landed on the dining room table. These will be switched via a fused supply from an DPST switch on the dash which can also select the relevant fuel sender. This also gets around the usual issue on the microswitches with them seizing if not used for a while! Cost for a pair of valves and a few fittings was £90. A quality looking component but I am a bit concerned over the bore size/restriction through the valve. One port is only 4mm dia. and my current pipework is 6mm ID.<br />
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Initially the fuel system will be rigged up to the dieso tank and the changeover carried out gradually. I am finding grabbing enough time on one chunk is a bit strained at the moment ;)Paul aka 'Marlin.45'http://www.blogger.com/profile/03630184424705762660noreply@blogger.com0