Anyway we have moved on somewhat!
The bulkhead was rebuilt using the original chassis mounts as a 'jig'. The old ones where solid and appeared to be in-line so I have risked it and built it up on them. All that was salvagable from the old one was the transmission tunnel with the cut-outs for the fuel change-over tap etc. That is now fitted to the top half of a 2a single motor wiper b/h from Bomag's back garden. New feet and posts came from P'docks as they had them in stock.
The one difference from the top section of the 2A b/h that I recovered from Nick's garden to mine was the mounting surround for the hand throttle/fan speed etc. The hand throttle is not going to be used but I like the feature so the surround was cut out from my old b/h and fitted to the 'new' assembly. If I need to drill through at a later date I can always do it after all?
Measure twice cut once adage also applies with welding (if you can call what I do with a no-gas MIG welding?) and it looks OK. A bit more material had to be added in places but it now looks solid and sound. Though a bit of a hybrid.
The intention was to get the b/h galvanised once it was complete then paint etc. Even though the galv price was good at £65 I had to factor in sandblasting and this is where my problem lay. Trying to find someone local to do the job. In the end with limited 'home time' available to get that done I abandoned the idea and cleaned the whole b/h with a wacky wheel and scotchbrite and painted it today with two coats of automotive Rust Bullet. Next weekend it will get several coats of bronze green then all cavities will be filled with Dinitrol. The outside will also be painted military matt green - shade & finish TBC.
If I could get hold of a compressor with adequate ooomph and a SIP sand blasting gun then I would be laughing ;)
Pic below was taken while jigging the feet and sides on the old chassis after tacking in place. Chassis was first set level using the front crossmember as a datum. Feet and sides could then be checked for vertical alignment and top section for level.
Setting up the first footwell for tacking
Bulkhead welded up solid and ready for minor mods and paint.
Test fitting the 110 master cylinder. Might as well have brakes that stop?
A point of note to anyone using Automotive Rust Bullet is it's coverage. Though 250ml is stated by them to be sufficient for two coats of a b/h it is a lot thicker than POR15. It would struggle to do the job without a whole heap of thinning - which is what I had to do. I did make comments to this effect to the UK distributor. They haven't replied (5 days since).
After two coats of Automotive Rust Bullet. It looks better at a distance......
Next weekend I can sand back the external and more visible section to remove some of the brush marks. Then seal around the joints. Then prime and then it will hopefully be ready for a few layers of bronze green?
With the b/h off and curing I can put that to one side for now and look at the other 'sub assemblies'
The steering relay was popped out of the soon to be recycled chassis (came straight out without any hassles) and is now disassembled on the bench. The shaft is scrap due to poor top-end lubrication and a new old stock (NOS) genuine shaft, spring, seals etc. are on their way so this can be built up ready for refit. I was not going to go with a Br1tspit offering unless someone put a gun to my head!
Click on the pic and you will see that the top end of the shaft bearing surface is long gone.
Loads of other small parts and assemblies are scattered around the garage/garden/lounge in different states of cleaning/rebuild/paint. In an attempt to limit the possibilities of losing anything I grabbed a load of fruit boxes from the local Lidl. At least now assemblies such as 'front rad panel', 'bulkhead' etc. can have all their small parts held in one place.
Richards got back to me to say the chassis is currently on the jig to check alignment so they will be delivering the new galv mili spec chassis with all the trimmings any week now. In the end I ordered a military spec/1 tonne with removable gearbox x-members and steering damper bracket as well.
Once the chassis gets here I have a gallon of T-wash, 2.5 litres of Johnsons galv primer and 1 litre of Rust Bullet Black Shell to apply. The old chassis is stripped bar the axles. So the next step is to lift the engine and gbx out. Both of these are unbolted and ready to be dropped onto a pallet once I get a hoist over here. Hoist planned to be here for the weekend of 4/5th July
I still need to get the front rad panel over to Jeremy for repair and now that a few of the larger items are out of the way I may do that soon but this is not a rush to do item after all?
As to the powerplant the old 3 bearing 2.25 petrol is there at the mo but I am not trying to do rivet counting originality and I want to use the truck. A bit more power and improved economy is the way I want to go and like everyone else I am after the 'hens teeth' that is a rusty but mech good 200tdi Disco. I did debate over a 300tdi Disco but I initially thought chopping one engine mount was sacriledge to a new chassis....but if needs must then I still might!
Also made a spring decision. Now Mark the PO thought that the front springs had been changed before he bought the truck - so that would make them about 6 years old now. The rears we haven't the faintest and they look well past their best. Bulging with rust etc. It would be possible to split each pack/clean/re-assy but I cannot be bothered.
Condition of the front and rear springs.
Too much to do already so after a lot of financial heart searching I have decided to change all of them........Rocky Mountain Spares now have an order for a set of parabolics and just have to wait for them to land in the UK :)
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