PASSENGER DOOR
This has never closed easily and luckily it didn't need much adjustment. It now closes as 'easily' as the RH one.
ELECTRIC'ERY
Fitted a pair of cigar lighter sockets to the dash for occassional pluggy type stuff. then rewired the CB and fitted that to the rear bulkhead. A much better location and quality of bodging than before.Dash backlights were fitted with 'high power LED's' some time ago and turned out to be pretty much useless. As much light emitted as an ignited farting mosquito. So I picked up the std bulb from the local hal'frauds. 49p for two with a trade discount and I can actually see the dash now when it is dark.
GLOW PLUGS
The Tdi came with glow plugs, though I had never wired them up as every comment on the net says 'why bother?' Yes it will start from cold without, but why strain everything when there is this simple alternative?
The cable loom was salvaged and I dragged it out of a box and fitted it....but the relay didn't work. Checked the relay manu date on the side and it was stamped '94 so probably died due to old age? A replacement was going to be around £30 so I went for a cheaper option.
A std automotive 40 Amp relay will take 120 Amp for 3 seconds without detriment (at least the Tyco ones do). Current load on a full compliment of tdi heaters is around 90 Amps for a fraction of a second and then drops off to around 60 Amps. They will only be enabled for 3-5 Seconds anyway. Also I will use a manual toggle switch so I only have to use them when necessary...and the cold start light on the dash can easily be made to work when the plugs are working.
Total cost for the relay £1.20. So I splashed out on a natty little socket for it with an integrated fuse holder. All in, with postage it came to £5.20!
Works fine!
PEVEKOILS Etc.
I had been avoiding getting these installed for months but I thought while I had the dash apart for the glow mods I would start the wiring for these....and I ended up doing the whole install.
Changed the pipework a bit. I no longer heat the dieso and have re-routed so only the LH WVO/dieso tank feed passes through the heat exchanger. Both tanks have independent filters. A CAV type on the LH and the original tdi spin on Bosch type for the RH.
Here is a 'quality' image of the current layout.
Now three days in I still haven't managed to get the system working without problems.
- The first problem was the inability to draw from the LH tank. Tank had not been used for months and had been left empty so the filter was changed as it may have gummed up due to the WVO.
- Air leaks at various points. Lots of fault finding and hose changes to quality SAE J30 R6 fuel hose.
- RH tank (dieso) the filter didn't seem to want to allow fuel to pass through. The system would run and starve itself of fuel. Changed the filter for a new one and it would not run at all. Then noticed that I had fitted a TD5 filter (much finer filtering and therefore needs a stronger pump) and not the tdi type. Bypassed that and all was well.
- Everything was running fine until I fitted a fresh tdi filter and reconnected the bypass. I had the same problem with fuel starvation! Bypass the filter housing again and all was good with the world mmmmmm.
So that is where we are now. The fault is either a porous housing (which always used to work), leaks around the copper sealing washers on the banjos (I just fitted these and didn't anneal) or the lift pump isn't sucking enough. The final idea I believe to be a red herring as it draws fine from the LH 'veg' tank which is more viscous.
Here's a pic of the current Pevekoil fittment and the glow relay to the rear on bulkhead to the right of the fuse box. tdi filter cart currently removed and housing bypassed.
Back to this tomorrow (weather permitted) and the first step will be to soften those copper banjo washers ;)
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