Friday evening and Sat morning I managed to get the flywheel casing modified a la Glencoyne and the genuine crank seal fitted. Original was a Dowty and the new one came with no stamped ID but was in a genuine LR box). In the end I had to buy a pack of 25 off 10mm x 80mm cap head screws for the bottom strengthener bolt replacements as I couldn't source them locally. Hopefully others will need some and I can pass them on for beer money?
Noons Scrap metal also recovered the Disco shell. So that'll keep the neighbour happy!
So using the shanks from some long stainless 10mm screws (cut to form studs) they were inserted with permanent thread lock after tapping the housing to suit. At the base of the housing (3 off) and one to replace the relocated stud in the 3 O'clock position. The four cap heads at the base of the flywheel housing had to be accomodated flush with the housing. Unfortunately I could not find a suitable 16mm drill and all I had to hand was a 19mm. A bit oversize and it breaks through into the flywheel cavity but should not present any problems.
Note the third hole from the left though. Drill went a bit too 'happy', snatched and cracked a bit off the casing. So no screw to be fitted there. Three should be more than sufficient. Some installations don't bother with these at all after all?
Saturday afternoon Stu 'Twizzle' dropped over to help get the S2 gearbox up close and personal with the tdi's backend. After a great deal of huffing/puffing and tweaking the engine crank position etc. it went in!
The in a fit of enthusiasm Stu suggested fitting the renovated bulkhead. Now it has never been on the chassis before and was built up on the old and now scrapped one. Would it fit?..........................It did, and the bolts lined up perfectly :) It's starting to look like a Land Rover again?
On Sunday I had a few hours spare so I decide to adjust the valve clearances, get the trans brake rebuilt and back on then refill both the transfer and main gearbox.
To avoid filling through normal side ports I popped the access plate open on the tx box and filled that with semi-synth 75/90 GL4 through there. Then moved onto the main box and decide to fill through the top turret as that was directly over the gearbox I assumed the oil feed must come from there? After about 4 litres of expensive lube the gearbox level was still not reached,and I thought something must be wrong? I opened the tx box overflow and it gushed out so I immediately thought the seal between the boxes must have failed.
So transfer box off to access the main shaft oil seal...... and I then realised that the top turrent oil comes from the tx box via a slot machined in the back of the tx box. I was just filling the tx box through that! Duuuugh!
Pic shows tx box off and a view of the rear of the main gbx and main shaft and lip seal exposed (yes I could even have changed the seal in situ without removing whole tx box but it's a darn sight easier this way).
Luckily I saved all the gear lube (£25 for 4 litres after all x2) so that can go back in later. While it is all off I may as well replace the main to tx box seal, give the whole assy a clean up and replace all the gaskets. Cheap enough after all. At least I learnt something from the experience?
Stu had left on Sat with 4 of the 7.50's on late 109 rims and I plan to drop the last two matching ones off at the end of next week. Tyres will be pulled off (in exch. for beer) and I can then get the rims sand blasted and painted. So I needed to grab the last one that was propping up one corner of the chassis and swap it with a spare.
Well as I tightened up one wheelnut it seemed to go around a bit more than usual. Then fell out. Someone in the past had epoxying the stud in the bl**dy hole!
So along with the gbx gaskets etc I have ordered the 'spline' type wheel studs (Part No.561886). I just need to bore the hole out to 9/16" then wind the new stud in. Stud costs 25p after all, so why bodge it?
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