FUEL GAUGES
Now fixed!
The new voltage stabiliser fixed the zebedee like fuel gauge action :)
In the end I had to use the whole S3 dash instrument as the individual fuel gauge would not fit the S2 unit (different dims etc.).
The only issue I can see long term are the sender switches fitted to the military fuel selector selector/valve. These had to be stripped down a few months back because they had seized due to lack of use and corrosion. I now find that even though they had been lubed up and kept in storage, one had jammed. So this one was dismantled - again, more ACF50 injected down the shaft and it is now working. Time will tell how they fair but TBH a selector switch on the dash would be more reliable and cheaper to the tune of £50?
OTHER ELECTRICS
While I was fiddling with the fuel gauges and had the instrument panel open I thought I may as well do the final odds and sods to save me prying it open again for a while.
First the Smiths round heater fan was connected up with an in-line fuse through a switch under the dash fitted alongside the original fan speed rheostat. The old 'stat was FUBAR'd so this is an easy fix (heater is efficient at heating the interior of the 109 as a hot tadpole so full speed or nowt IMHO).
Heated drivers windscreen also wired in via a 15A in-line fuse. Dash switch enables that via a 30A relay when the ignition is on and I also rigged up a little reminder lamp on the dash.
Front indicators were playing up and I found two reasons for this.
A) The nearside indicator unit (Lucas 594?) no longer had a spring with any real spring'yness to push the bulb forward and make good electrical contact. The other indicator wasn't much better. So two new units ordered 'sans' internal corrosion and age. Two types of bulb housing were found at the front 488 and 594. The latter is the easiest to remove the bulb from and cheap at £7 each.
B) The original (or at least very old) mechanical flasher unit has very irregular timings. This would be an MOT fail. So I need to replace this, and so far a rummage though the bits box hasn't dug up another or even an electronic equivalent. I will keep searching.
So, for now, there aren't ,many electrickery bits to do...... ;)
THE FIRST RUN!
The farmer at the back of me let me take Trig for a couple of runs around the field to check brakes etc. and of course a few items showed up straight away.
- SPEEDO - does not work. I need to investigate why.
- BRAKES - they do work but the nearside rear needs a look, as it seems the manual adjusters on one shoe are not working.
- STEERING - I was expecting vague as you would expect from a Series steering box but this was worse. Then I realised I haven't set up the tracking! Checked the dims against the 'green bible' and found the trackrod was 10mm/0.5" too long. Adjusted it up and it was a lot better. I also need to check that all the TRE's are locked in position.
SUSPENSION
Currently all the bolts/screw/nylocks etc. have still to be tightened up so the rear is a bit 'waggy' due to the height (combat chassis at max and new parrots). So the plan is to fill up the 109 with drums of water in the front (and back) to load up the suspension (around 500kg) and then tension the whole suspension set-up. Easy to unload when it is water....and I don't know enough fat people to fill the truck anyway.
INTERIOR
OK, now the plan was to keep the truck as original as I could (ignoring the tdi!) but with doors with no sound proofing would be a farce with a rattley diesel under the hood. So I also decided to order a set of door cards from Trakkers/Exmoor Trim. The matting inside the door would get beaten up otherwise (my excuse)?
All I need now are some interior door handles. Having a bit of trouble sourcing them at the moment seeing as I am out of the country most of the time, but......... Twizzle - if you are reading this do you have any at the back of your shack?
OTHER
Front bumper 'should' be with me in the next week if Rob gets his new shiney powder coated one on his 109........ ;)
